A sweet stash of lilikoi fruit is a treat worth celebrating

Passion fruit is in season! Oahu consumers might not find much of it at farmers markets, but on Hawaii island there’s an abundance of the golden yellow and purple varieties. Passion fruit yields seductively sweet-tart juice with a perfumy fragrance. Native to Brazil, the fruit is named for its flower, which is said to resemble Christ’s Passion — the crown of thorns, nails and other elements of the Crucifixion.

The yellow dimpled skin of the passion fruit indicates its readiness to be cut open. Use the pointed tip of a sharp knife to pierce the tough skin, then slice the fruit in half. The golden orange pulp with black seeds can be eaten with a spoon; scoop the pulp into cheesecloth and squeeze to strain the seeds from the juice.

Passion fruit juice requires some sugar to temper its distinctive tartness. Purple-skinned passion fruit, usually referred to as lilikoi, tends to be sweeter, requiring less sugar to balance the acidity.

Bakers especially love passion fruit for tarts, chiffon pies, meringue-topped pies and buttery curd. You can substitute passion fruit juice in recipes calling for lemon juice. Fresh passion fruit juice, sorbets and ice creams, syrups, salad dressings, jelly and sauces are all part of its repertoire.

If you’re lucky enough to come into a stash, squeeze the juice and freeze it in measured portions (a cup goes a long way in most recipes) to use when the season has passed.

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Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.