I was in New York recently, where one of the more controversial topics in the winemaking world reverberates. It centers on high alcohol levels in wine.

One of the professionals questioning this seemingly growing trend is Rajat Parr, wine director of the Michael Mina Restaurants and RN74. Parr started the organization In Pursuit of Balance, or IPOB, with Jasmine Hirsch of Hirsch Vineyards. One of IPOB’s goals, as stated on its website (inpursuitofbalance.com), is "to promote dialogue around the meaning and relevance of balance in California pinot noir and chardonnay."

The site states, "This growing group of producers is seeking a different direction with their wines, both in the vineyard and the winery. This direction focuses on balance, non-manipulation in the cellar and the promotion of the fundamental varietal characteristics that make pinot noir and chardonnay great: subtlety, poise and the ability of these grapes to serve as profound vehicles for the expression of terroir (the environment in which the grapes are grown). This has become one of the hottest, most controversial topics in the wine world today."

While many industry professionals perceive this approach as overzealous, I believe Raj and the gang are asking the right questions — the kind that make us think:

» When you eat a dish, shouldn’t it be balanced? Taking that a step further: Shouldn’t a wine be balanced as well? Alcohol levels contribute to balance.

» If today’s foods are lighter and fresher, shouldn’t we expect our wines to be light and fresh as well?

» Is "adjusting" the wines in the winery necessary?

Wine is greatly affected by what’s in fashion. Right now that means big, ultraripe, opulent and smooth (lower-acidity) wine that’s often higher in alcohol content.

Many attribute this type of wine to global warming, but various styles of wine can be produced amid warmer temperatures.

Through his Sandhi wines, Parr and a growing number of IPOB producers are proving in the vineyard and the winery that sensibility and restraint in wine can be achieved without compromising tastiness and complexity.

This is not to pass judgment on any wine, done in any style. There is enough room for myriad wines and styles. What’s important is understanding that the world of wine is vast and that there are many discoveries to make.

Here are a few wines from the IPOB gang that are available in Hawaii. Try some of these with something else from their respective growing region, just to compare:

» 2009 Alta Maria Chardonnay "Santa Maria Valley" (about $26 a bottle): Paul Wilkins is undoubtedly crafting some of the best chardonnays and pinot noirs out of the Santa Barbara area. It helps that his partner, vineyardist James Ontiveros, oversees star vineyards such as Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills in addition to owning Ranch Ontiveros. What this dynamic duo typically delivers is tasty, expressive, wonderfully layered wines that overdeliver for the dollar … all at less than 14 degrees alcohol.

» 2009 Hirsch Chardonnay "Estate" (about $34): Jasmine Hirsch is one of the founding members of IPOB, and her father is an iconic vineyard owner-farmer from the remote Sonoma Coast. His dream has always been to produce a chardonnay and pinot noir that would rival any other in quality and balance while still being uniquely Hirsch Vineyard. While one would expect something big and demonstrative from a vineyard such as this, that is not the case. Tasters will be surprised at the understated and well-balanced qualities of this wine.

» 2010 Sandhi Pinot Noir "Santa Rita Hills" (about $39): A pretty, elegant, highly refined pinot noir, all about purity, transparency and finesse. The grapes for the 2010 come from the highly revered Sanford & Benedict vineyard, along with fruit from younger vines of two other western Santa Ynez sites.

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Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group.