The family-run Highway Inn, offering “a taste of Old Hawaii,” hardly needs an introduction. But as a happy-hour destination it just might.

The restaurant originated in Waipahu in 1947. A second location, at 680 Ala Moana Blvd. in Kakaako, opened in 2013 and draws a large local following for its ono Hawaiian food and ample portions.

Unlike the original Highway Inn, the newer one serves alcohol.

The experience

The happy-hour frenzy you find at many places where work-weary patrons rush in to take the edge off is thankfully absent at Highway Inn. The relaxed vibe starts with the welcoming, friendly staff and is amplified by the interior design. Exposed overhead pipes and polished concrete floors mirror the psuedo-industrial aesthetic of the “new Kakaako” that surrounds Highway Inn, but there are touches of the plantation, too, in the light fixtures, the muted green and dirt-red tones, and the corrugated tin and wood-siding finishes. The place is clean, modern and local at the same time.

A full bar seats about a dozen patrons, but the pau hana specials extend throughout the spacious dining room. When we dropped by there were families, couples, an office crew, pau hana construction workers and a foursome straight from the gym.

Further contributing to the chill mood when we visited on a recent Friday was the live acoustic music by Cory Oliveros, who performed crack covers of Cecilio & Kapono, Kalapana and other classics that took me back. Points for that: I prefer a little entertainment with my pau hana forays; it relieves the pressure of having to carry on a conversation while trying to decompress. Here, live music is offered 5 to 7 p.m. Fridays only. Find the rotating lineup on the Highway Inn website.

Take note: Parking in the lot fronting Ala Moana Boulevard is no longer free. There’s now a gate and you’ll have to take a ticket, but with validation the first 90 minutes are free. You’ll also find validated parking at the Salt parking structure and can cruise the neighborhood for street stalls.

The food

When it comes to happy-hour pricing, Highway Inn keeps it simple: $1 off the appetizer menu (ahi excluded) and $1 off beer and wine only. (All the prices listed here are happy-hour prices, in effect from 2:30 to 6 p.m. weekdays.)

The restaurant’s reputation for local-style food carries into its appetizer menu. The Dip on Dis ($13.65), a creamy blend of luau leaves, shredded pork and three cheeses, topped with shredded parmesan and lomi tomatoes, arrived on a platter surrounded by a heaping mound of crisp, sturdy uala (purple sweet potato) chips.

Like most Hawaiian food, it was a little on the bland side — but that’s why they put Tabasco on the table, right? It was also super rich and more than two of us could handle, although we did our best!

The Sizzlin’ Skillet of Souza’s Lychee Wood Smoked Meat and Pipikaula ($11. 25) was served as advertised: in a sizzling cast-iron skillet. The bites were tender and salty but also a little oily, calling for a side of one scoop rice.

Other happy-hour appetizers include chicken wings tossed in your choice of spicy, furikake or lilikoi barbecue sauce ($11.65); crinkle-cut fries with either garlic furikake, truffle nacho cheese or brown gravy ($10.45); kalua pig nachos ($12.75) and quesadillas ($8.75); and edamame poke ($7.45) sauteed with sliced lup cheong and “chef’s secret sauce.”

Although the prices might seem high for happy-hour bargain seekers, the portions could easily satisfy three or four guests. You won’t leave hungry for dinner.

The drinks

There’s a full bar at Highway Inn, but only beer and wine qualify for the $1 discount.

Bikini Blonde and Big Swell IPA from Maui Brewing Co., Longboard Lager and Wailua Wheat from Kona Brewing Co, and Stella Artois are on tap for $5. A small selection of Maui and California wines are $5 to $8 per glass ($5 off bottles).

Not discounted but still reasonably priced are craft cocktails such as Hawaiian Chili Pepper Bloody Mary ($7.50), POG Mimosa ($8) and Green Highway with Green River, vodka and coconut milk ($8).

The verdict

If you’re looking for the hipster version of Kakaako, go somewhere else. At Highway Inn you’ll find an effortless, air-conditioned and mellow oasis of local flavors and values in a neighborhood that is rapidly losing both.