Isles’ craft beer experts join forces

I always get a kick out of people who want to know what my favorite drink is.

“Are you a beer guy or a spirits guy?” they’ll ask. “Or do you like wine better?”

It depends. What’s the occasion? Where are we drinking? Do I know the bartender working behind the bar? Who’s the sommelier? How much are we spending?

As someone who likes anything and everything brewed or fermented, I believe you always have options, the option of not choosing. You can be a wine drinker and still love craft beer. Why should anyone care if you want to drink a cocktail after enjoying something else?

That’s why I’m excited about Palate Craft & Eatery opening in the former Soul de Cuba space across from Hawaii Theatre. Owners Pat Kashani, Lisa Kim and Troy Terorotua are responsible for some of Honolulu’s most popular craft beer destinations; Kim and Terorotua are co-owners of Real a Gastropub and Brew’d Craft Pub, while Kashani owns and operates the Tropics Tap House locations on Oahu and Hawaii island, the Tropics Ale House on Hawaii island and six Greek restaurants in California and Arizona.

Two rooms give Palate customers two distinct experiences. The lounge side has an S-shaped main bar with 12 barstools and a handful of high tables; a separate dining room is more traditional, complete with a cold case to showcase grab-and-go items when Palate starts lunch service in a few weeks. I prefer the lounge, with its bar top made out of hundreds of dollars worth of nickels.

Palate also scored Nick Carter as beverage director. He comes to Chinatown by way of Bevy in Kakaako, where he worked under award-winning mixologist Christian Self, who held court for years at thirtyninehotel in Chinatown before opening his own bar. There are just six cocktails on the menu now, but all are intriguing enough to make you spend time deciding what to drink.

On a recent visit I started off with a Red Sea ($10), made with rum, Cynar bitter liqueur, lemon, strawberry and rhubarb bitters. The choice of Cruzan Black Strap rum brought a nice molasses-like sweetness to the drink, which was balanced out by the Cynar. I wasn’t accustomed to strawberry or rhubarb in cocktails, so I was surprised at how well they played off each other.

Carter also impressed me with his Cold Fashioned ($10), made with cold brew ice cubes from Chinatown neighbor Manifest. Four Roses bourbon was mixed with Gifford’s Vanilla liqueur and Angostura bitters, then presented in a small glass decanter next to a second glass filled with plain ice and a couple of cold brew cubes. Adding a bit of the cocktail to your glass every few sips helps dial in the amount of coffee as the cold brew cubes melt. I liked how the first taste was very different from the last.

Looking for a cocktail that packs more punch? Go ahead and Release the Kraken ($12) for an over-the-top slap to the face made with Bulleit rye whiskey, Montenegro Amaro liqueur, Benedictine and Fernet Branca herbal liqueurs, 16-year-old Lagavulin Scotch and orange bitters. Mixing Lagavulin, an Islay-style Scotch with heavy peat influence, with even more whiskey and a trio of boldly bitter liqueurs isn’t for the faint of heart.

Carter wraps up his opening cocktail menu with his Opa Collins ($9), a twist on the classic made with rosemary-infused Plymouth gin and Hawaiian chili pepper syrup; the Belle, which includes El Tesoro Reposado tequila, Vida mezcal, honey, lemon, roasted bell pepper and cilantro; and the easy-drinking Grand Prix ($8) made with a mix of Grand Marnier, limoncello lemon liqueur and prosecco. Don’t forget the house Moscow Mule ($8), which is pre-mixed with Sobieski vodka, lime and housemade ginger syrup, and served from a tap.

Along with the Moscow Mule, Palate also has three wines and 16 craft beers on tap. Angeline Sauvignon Blanc ($9), Coppola Director’s Chardonnay ($10) and Diseno Malbec ($6) were available on tap last week along with a handful of by-the-glass offerings. The designated driver in your group doesn’t have to stick to water — housemade pineapple soda ($4) with fresh pineapple and infused with star anise and vanilla is a tasty alternative to fountain drinks.

Don’t forget those beer taps. Palate’s owners for years have operated bars that cater to local craft beer drinkers; they know what they’re doing. Local breweries currently represented include Big Island Brewhaus and Kona Brewing Company, and there are mainstream craft favorites like New Belgium’s Fat Tire, Ballast Point’s Sculpin IPA and Deschutes’ Armory XPA. Or try the Alpine Beer’s Hoppy Birthday Session IPA, Elysian’s Superfuzz Blood Orange pale ale or Gigantic Brewing’s Kiss the Goat doppelbock.

The best way to keep up with the menu, which changes daily, is to visit Palate’s Facebook page or website. Both are updated as kegs are rotated into service behind the bar. Or just head down and be surprised.

Contact Jason Genegabus at jason@staradvertiser.com with suggestions of places to visit and drinks to try; read his blog at inthemix.staradvertiserblogs.com.