Burgers make way for mahi at Counter

Since its opening eight years ago, I’ve equated The Counter Custom Built Burger with the decadence of thick, juicy burgers, chicken wings, 50-50 combos of fries and onion rings, and deviled eggs.

A growing appetite for healthier options led to introductions of kale and hippie salads, and more recently, a couple of healthful seasonal menu specialties. Available for the next few months are a “Tastes of the Mediterranean” grilled mahimahi sandwich ($16) and grilled mahimahi salad ($14.50).

The sandwich features the fish topped with olive tapenade, peppers, onions, eggplant and marinated artichokes on grilled ciabatta. A gluten- free tapioca bun is available.

The salad was a revelation, a mix of cabbage slaw, cucumbers, marinated artichokes and tomatoes tossed with a lemon vinaigrette and quinoa, adding up to a refreshing, light salad with just the right amount of protein. It’s a dish I could eat every day without feeling the least bit of guilt.

Happy-hour celebrants also have the option of a duo of veggie-burger sliders, with patties made fresh out of zucchini, mushrooms, corn, cranberries, onion, spinach, black beans, brown rice and more produce, with a touch of fennel seeds.

What kind of dedication does this entail? It takes four hours of prep to make the patties, but chef Matthew Lindblom is willing to put in the time.