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The inspiration for this article started as I enjoyed a lamb souvlaki dish at the Olive Tree in Kahala. It continued while savoring a homemade fennel sausage pizza the following night and a spaghetti Bolognese three days later.
The popularity of Mediterranean- inspired food seems to be on the rise.
The question for me is what kinds of wines would enhance the enjoyment of these kinds of food, especially in a more casual setting. Here are some recommendations:
>> For a marinated and seared lamb souvlaki served alone, I would suggest a lighter Mediterranean red wine. Consider, for example, the Domaine Skouras “Zoe” Red (about $15 a bottle). This delicious, rustic, juicy, sumptuous Greek country-style red wine comes from the Peloponnese peninsula of southern Greece.
If, however, the lamb souvlaki is served in a pita bread with a Greek-inspired salad of lettuce, tomato, cucumber and a tangy tzatziki sauce, I instead suggest a medium-dry to dry aromatic white wine. One that comes to mind is the Domaine Skouras “Zoe” White (about $15), a tasty, wonderfully perfumed, dry, country-styled blend of two indigenous Greek grape varieties — roditis and moscholfilero — also from the Peloponnese. Aroma-driven wines like this one uplift food, just as fresh herbs do.
Another consideration is an off-dry, lighter-bodied, delicious rose, such as the Elvio Tintero Rosato (about $15). This medium-dry to dry, lively, fizzy Italian pink wine is a style one can enjoy in Piedmontese cafes in Italy’s northwest.
>> In the case of fennel sausage pizza, my immediate thought would be a lighter-bodied Tuscan sangiovese-based country-styled red. It took some time for me to fully appreciate how food-friendly these red wines can be. One I recommend is the Casa alle Vacche Chianti “Colli Senesi” ($15 a bottle). This tasty, rustic, light- to medium-bodied offering is exactly what the pizza is asking for.
For those who prefer more fruit-driven California reds, consider the Palmina Dolcetto “Santa Barbara” (about $19). This is an absolutely delicious and juicy, though masculine, Italian lookalike grown and produced in the Santa Barbara appellation by world-renowned pinot noir winemaker Steve Clifton. This wine exhibits the earthy, rustic nuances of its Italian counterparts but with much riper, plumper, juicy fruit from the generous California sunshine.
>> Finally, the spaghetti Bolognese: While most would select a lighter-bodied red wine, I much prefer a tasty, dry, light- to medium-bodied rose. A new discovery is the Chateau de Lascaux Rose (about $19) from southern France, though it may be challenging to find. Another good option that’s readily available is the Le Poussin Rose (about $14). These delicious, lively pink wines freshen the palate between bites, just as cranberry does at a Thanksgiving feast.
Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.