Classic casserole and drink celebrate the Peruvian cause

At a party in Peru, chances are you will be served causa, a mashed potato terrine stuffed with assorted fillings. The perfect pairing would be the Pisco sour, a strong and citrusy cocktail.

Legend has it that when Peruvians were fighting for independence from Spain, Causa Peruana (the “Peruvian Cause”) was sold to raise money for soldiers. The casserole is popular throughout the South American country and is a perfect dish for Hawaii potlucks as well, as it is served cold and can feed many. And because it is best made a day ahead, there is no rushing around on the day of a gathering.

Dr. Miguel Vasquez of Kakaako left his native northern Peru when he was 25 but still vividly remembers his mother’s version of causa.

“She always included beets in the filling and made the mashed potatoes spicy so it went perfectly with a beer or a Pisco sour,” he said.

Vasquez lives in Hawaii most of the year with his wife, Dr. Ann Carroll. The rest of the time, he provides relief for cardiologists in California and volunteers for medical missions in the remote jungles of southern Peru.

Vasquez emphasizes that there are many versions of causa. Any type of protein and all varieties of vegetables can be used. The colorful filling of chicken, crab or tuna and crunchy vegetables is held together with mayonnaise. It is sandwiched between layers of mashed potatoes seasoned with flavors of hot chilies and lime. The dish is always served cold.

The ubiquitous hot and fruity chili of Peru, aji amarillo, and fresh lime juice take the potatoes to a new level. While fresh aji amarillo is not widely available in Hawaii, find it frozen or in paste form at Mercado de la Raza store in Honolulu. Or substitute with serrano peppers or any hot sauce — think Sriracha or Mexican hot sauces.

“I must mention that you should omit the egg yolks, use low-fat mayonnaise and less salt,” the semiretired cardiologist said sheepishly.

Served decorated with a vibrant rainbow of avocado, various colors of bell pepper, boiled eggs and parsley, the dish is as pretty as any birthday cake.

The Pisco sour pairs well with causa. Pisco is a white brandy with 38 to 48 percent alcohol.

“It’s a war between Chile and Peru about who invented this drink, but there is a town in Peru called Pisco, so what do you think?” Vasquez asks.

The snappy drink also includes freshly squeezed lime juice, simple syrup and an egg white, which adds a beautiful frothiness, and is topped with a few dashes of angostura bitters and ground cinnamon. Salud to Peru!

Causa Peruana

• >> Mashed potatoes:
• 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes
• Juice of 5 limes, about 1/2 cup
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 2 teaspoons ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons pureed fresh or bottled aji amarillo chilies (substitute serrano peppers or any hot sauce)
• Additional hot sauce, to taste
• >> Filling:
• 3/4 cup frozen peas, defrosted
• 3/4 cup carrots, cooked and diced
• 2 stalks celery, diced
• 1/2 cup cooked beets, diced or shredded
• 1/2 red onion, minced
• 2-1/2 cups shredded cooked chicken (about 2 breasts)
• 1/2 cup low-fat mayonnaise
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• >> Garnish:
• 6 lettuce leaves
• 2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced
• 10 kalamata olives (or black olives)
• 1 avocado, sliced
• 1/2 red or yellow bell pepper, sliced
• 2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley sprigs or celery sprigs

To make potatoes: Boil potatoes until tender, about 20 minutes. Peel, then mash. Add lime juice, oil, salt, pepper and chilies or hot sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Set aside.

To make filling: Mix all ingredients. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Line a 9-by-13-inch casserole with parchment, waxed paper or plastic wrap. Add half of mash potatoes and press into the casserole. Add filling mixture as the middle layer. Top with remaining mashed potatoes, cover with plastic wrap and chill overnight.

Before serving, line a platter with lettuce leaves. Flip over the casserole onto lettuce and remove parchment. Decorate with eggs, olives, avocado, peppers and parsley or celery sprigs. Serves 9 as an appetizer.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including additional salt to taste): 310 calories, 14 g fat, 2.5 g saturated fat, 75 mg cholesterol, 900 mg sodium, 29 g carbohydrate, 5 g fiber, 4 g sugar, 18 g protein.

Causa variations

>> Incorporate any vegetables that are colorful and crunchy.

>> Replace chicken with cooked crab, tuna or shrimp.

>> Add blanched and minced spinach to create green mashed potatoes.

>> Spread the filling in three or four layers.

>> Make individual causas in glasses, so you can see the layers.

>> For a vegan version, omit chicken and eggs and substitute vegan mayonnaise.

Pisco Sour

• 1/2 cup sugar
• 3 tablespoons water
• 3/4 cup Pisco
• 1/4 cup lime juice
• 1/2 cup ice
• 1 egg white (use pasteurized eggs if concerned about consuming uncooked egg whites)
• Angostura bitters
• Ground cinnamon

In pot, heat sugar and water until dissolved. Cool.

To blender, add sugar water, Pisco, lime juice and ice. Blend.

Add egg white and blend again until frothy. Pour into 4 glasses.

Top with a few dashes of bitters and sprinkle with cinnamon. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Lynette Lo Tom, author of “The Chinese Kitchen,” is fascinated by old-fashioned food. Contact her at 275-3004 or via instagram at brightlightcookery. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.