Fruit soup at Halekulani made lasting impression

When something tastes good it can really stick with you, no matter how many years go by.

So it is for Jean Neuer and a chilled fruit soup that she remembers from the Sunday buffet at the Halekulani.

“I have been back since then, but have never seen it again. It was so good — a refreshing summer soup, very tropical, and obviously special, since I can’t get it out of my mind.”

This required a little time traveling, but the good folks at the Halekulani found someone who could reach back that far.

Leonita Genciana joined Orchids at the Halekulani in 1985 as garde manger, a position that involves preparing cold foods. She’s had the same job for 32 years, which puts her in the perfect position to answer Neuer’s request.

A cold fruit soup has been on the Orchids’ Sunday buffet for all these years, Genciana said, although it has changed.

The version of the ’90s, she said, was a mix of melons, strawberries, bananas and pineapple juice. Sounds like a smoothie, but it was blended into a silky soup. Not entirely tropical, but with bananas and pineapple, it would have a definite tropical slant.

“I loved it,” Genciana said. “Of course, it’s a smoothie, right?”

When she learned to make fruit soups the cantaloupe was often cooked in Pernod, an anise-flavored liqueur. “We don’t do that anymore; it’s not as healthy.”

These days Orchids chef Christian Testa likes to change up the soup weekly. It’s important to keep buffet offerings somewhat standard for regulars, Testa said, but also to offer variety, “so we can surprise the customer.”

What follows are three versions of the soup from the Orchids’ chefs. The first is the version mostly likely to be what Neuer remembers; the second two are in the rotation on the current Sunday buffet.

Orchids’ Chilled Fruit Soup

• 1 banana, sliced
• 1/2 pound strawberries
• 1 honeydew melon (2-3 pounds), peeled, seeded and cubed
• 1 cantaloupe (2-3 pounds), peeled, seeded and cubed
• 4 cups pineapple juice
• Pinch salt

Combine fruit in blender and puree, working in batches if necessary. Add pineapple juice and salt; blend until smooth. Chill. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serves 12.

Watermelon Gazpacho

• 2 pounds watermelon cubes (about 8 cups)
• 3 tablespoons chopped red bell pepper
• 3 tablespoons chopped sweet onion
• Pinch salt

Blend ingredients. Chill. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serves 6.

Chilled Cantaloupe Soup

• 2-pound cantaloupe, peeled, seeded and cubed
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
• 1/2 teaspoon lime zest
• 16 ounces whipping cream

Combine cantaloupe and sugar in saucepan with water to cover. Bring to boil; reduce heat and simmer 2 minutes.

Let cool, then blend cantaloupe with cooking water, lemon and lime zests. Slowly add cream to reach desired consistency. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serves 6.

Nutritional information unavailable.

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