New Tokoname in Kaimuki gets everything right

The new Tokoname Sushi Bar & Restaurant at the bottom of Waialae Avenue is a pleasant surprise — it’s spacious, at least double the size of the cozy restaurant in Kailua, with a Zen atmosphere.

The highly visible space here has been home to a revolving door of restaurants over the years — 39 Yoshoku, Sakura, Richo and, perhaps most memorable, Momomo, an izakaya that painted the outside of the stand-alone building completely black when it opened in 2004.

Perhaps Tokoname, with its already established customer base, has hit the right stride with its offerings at this spot.

THE EXPERIENCE

Entering Tokoname is a cool respite from the hot sun outside — the interior is outfitted with dark wood furnishings, a polished wood bar that matches the floor and bamboo shades. Gentle strums of traditional Japanese music create a soothing ambience.

Happy-hour seating is either at the bar or at the tall tables nearby. Free valet parking is available in a small parking lot on the mauka side of the restaurant.

THE FOOD

With half off the selection of appetizers, sashimi and sushi rolls, you have a great bargain if you don’t mind dining a little bit early. These appetizers from the regular menu come in full servings, each arranged prettily on the plate.

Agedashi tofu ($4.97 during happy hour), crisp and deep-fried on the outside and soft on the inside, topped with ginger, daikon and bonito (dried fish) flakes, is melt-in-your-mouth good.

If you’ve got a craving for sashimi, this is an opportune time to get the assorted, 12-piece platter at half the price ($12.48). The presentation is lovely — beautifully arranged sashimi, a wedge of wasabi shaped like a leaf, nestled next to a twirl of ginger and slices of lemon.

The namesake tokoname roll ($8.47) is also a winner, with a combo of spicy ahi tuna, cucumber and kaiware sprouts in the center, topped with maguro, hamachi, avocado and tobikko.

While it is not on the menu, you may order the white dragon roll ($13.95) for half off during happy hour, a delicious combination of crisp tempura shrimp with kaiware, topped with hamachi, cucumber and jalapeno to give it a zip, along with a citrus garlic aioli sauce.

THE DRINK

Whether it’s sake, shochu or a cocktail you want, Tokoname has some nice selections, but they are full price during happy hour. The cherry blossom margarita ($8.95), rimmed with salt, is a good counterbalance to spicy sashimi, served up in a celebratory red. It’s a sweet margarita due to the grenadine spiked with tequila, lime juice and triple sec.

Two can actually share the Iichiko chu-hai ($12.95), a tall glass layered with your preferred flavor of Iichiko (choose from peach, grape, green apple or lychee) along with a Bacardi 151 float. The apple definitely came through. Next time around I have my eye on the Shiso Mojito ($7.95), a light mix of rum, lime juice and shiso-infused simple syrup.

THE VERDICT

You can’t beat the deals on beautifully plated sushi and sashimi here, and the cocktails are generous and decent. Altogether a tasty experience for both the palate and the eye, with friendly service.

Definitely worth a return visit — tempting, even, to forgo dinner and just head straight to happy hour an hour early, if time permits.