With all the different wines, spirits and beers now available in Hawaii, it can be difficult to figure out where to go for your favorite libation. But if you want good — no, let’s say great — sake at a fair price, the place to go is Sakura Terrace on South King Street in Makiki.

This cozy, charming Japanese cafe will make you feel like a connoisseur, and its new happy hour might just help you become one. Held at the somewhat unusual hour of 7:30 p.m. to closing — its regular customers tend to be early diners — it should prove to be a convenient place for a late pau hana snack, which could grow to become a full meal.

THE EXPERIENCE

It’s easy to miss Sakura Terrace as you’re driving by on South King Street. It’s on the side with the bike lane, so you are already some distance from the curb, and it’s hidden behind a tall thicket of bamboo and other plants.

Once you’re inside, you’ll understand why all the plants are there. The restaurant, in fact, does have a terrace, with several tables on an outside patio just behind the plants. The plants provide a nice barrier to the busy street outside and bring a charming outdoor atmosphere on the inside.

The establishment has been around for about six years but has recently undergone a renovation, which shows in the elegantly simple decor of wood tables and chairs and the bright bar area. The food is primarily typical Japanese fare such as sushi, rice bowls and tempura, but Sakura now features premium imported rice from Japan, which is always a treat. The service was plentiful, enthusiastic and knowledgeable.

THE FOOD

The happy hour features several small $5 plates. Order up enough and it makes a for a tidy meal.

I tried the mysteriously named Mac Tofu. It’s not bean curd, nor is it macaroni tofu, but mashed-up macadamia nuts, molded into a block that looks like tofu and served cold. It’s an appropriate name — the texture was as delicate as soft tofu, with just a bit of graininess to recall its nut origins, and the flavor an equally refined hint of macadamia.

I also had the Karaage Chicken, which was perfectly deep-fried with a crunchy outer crust and tender inside. It’s a dish where all kinds of things can go wrong: It can get soggy if overcooked; it will be filling if the coating is too thick, bland if the sauce overpowers the meat. No problem in any of these areas.

The Special Sashimi is made fresh every day from the morning’s catch, so you can hardly go wrong with that. I certainly enjoyed it.

THE DRINK

As mentioned earlier, the sake is the main feature here. Sakura Terrace puts a huge discount on its sake, pricing some brands that normally sell for $10 to $11 a glass at a uniform $4 a glass. If you’re thirsty and know what you like, sake is also available in a 300-milliliter size (a little less than a can of soda) for $14.

I tried two brands, Haikkaison and Dassai. Haikkaison was mild through and through, but though it was easy on the taste buds, it still left a lingering freshness in the mouth. Dassai, a gold medal winner in the Japan, had wonderful hints of fruit and flowers. I’ll be looking forward to trying other premium brands on the wine list.

THE VERDICT

Sakura Terrace manager Daisuke Arai is a native of Japan and new to Hawaii, but he knows the American palate well, having worked in Las Vegas and New York before coming here. He’s got the right idea implementing specials like happy hour, which wasn’t offered under the previous management, and a “ladies night” on Thursdays.

His happy hour provides enough variety among the well-priced pupu to provide a good meal by themselves, or serve as entrees to the main menu, which looks appealing. Just enjoy the sake as you take it all in.