If you are a lazy planner, like traveling alone without actually being alone, or want an experience more likely to renew than exhaust, then a Regent Seven Seas all-inclusive South American cruise might be just the ticket. Read more
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If you are a lazy planner, like traveling alone without actually being alone, or want an experience more likely to renew than exhaust, then a Regent Seven Seas all-inclusive South American cruise might be just the ticket.
Since I easily fit all three categories, I flew to Buenos Aires.
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Often called the Paris of South America for its wide boulevards and belle epoque architecture, Buenos Aires doesn’t disappoint. There are also art deco, colonial and neo-classic buildings amid cobblestone streets, gentrifying tenements, boho-chic neighborhoods, cafe- lined squares and churches galore.
Then there’s the mouthwatering Argentinian beef and world- renowned Malbec, making carnivores and oenophiles doubly rejoice. And the flamboyant tango breathes romance and color into this elegant city.
Regent Seven Seas Cruises has 11-night to 71-night, all-inclusive cruises through South America and are booking trips through 2019. Regent cruises include round-trip air on domestic flights, round-trip business-class air on intercontinental flights, unlimited beverages, fine wines and spirits, unlimited Wi-Fi, unlimited shore excursions, pre-paid gratuities, meals at specialty restaurants, transfers between airport and ship, and pre-cruise hotel. For information, visit rssc.com or call 844-473-4368.
Starting at pedestrian Avenida Florida, I headed to the impressive Plaza de Mayo’s Casa Rosada — pink house — where President Mauricio Macri often holds meetings. Nearby, the massive neo-classic Cathedral Metropolitana contains a rococo-style altar and houses Argentinian liberator General Jose de San Martin’s mausoleum.
Walking up Avenida Defensa toward cobblestoned San Telmo neighborhood, my nose halted me at crowded Perez-H, a quirky food stand serving fabulous hamburgers. Fortified, I passed by microscopic Casa Minima, an 8-by-26-foot house that was originally the carriage house for the mansion next door. Then I strolled by numerous antiques shops, colonial houses and churches until reaching Plaza Dorrego, where artists sell crafts, and cafes spawn impromptu tango dancers.
Like Italians, many Argentinians treat ice cream like one of the four basic food groups. Their version is so creamy and delicious, it’s probably the arterial health equivalent of a hydrogen bomb. That didn’t stop me.
No trip to Buenos Aires would be complete without visiting La Recoleta Cemetery where members of the Argentinian elite, including former first lady Eva Duarte Peron — Evita — are interred. Winding, narrow walkways contain massive mausoleums of every conceivable architectural style, most substantially larger than my first apartment.
Curious about charismatic Evita, whose 1952 death aroused intense national grief, I headed to Museo Evita in the fashionable Palermo neighborhood and viewed old photos, gowns and subtitled political rally video clips.
Walking onward to the uber-cool, quirky Soho neighborhood with boutiques, cafes, bars and outdoor crafts market, I bought a T-shirt emblazoned “Coffee is my BFF.” More on this later.
It was time to embark onto Regent’s Seven Seas Mariner.
All aboard
Handed a glass of Champagne for a delightfully brief two-minute check-in, I went to my spacious, tastefully appointed stateroom and actually squealed upon seeing the Illy espresso machine. Thinking of my new T-shirt, I realized if forced to choose between coffee and family, my relatives might get lonely.
The Mariner’s 350 suites are so nice, with comfortable beds, plush linens and towels, large granite bathrooms, walk-in closets, separate sitting areas, fully stocked mini-bar, desk area, in-room movies and speedy room service, they make it difficult to leave the room. But the ship’s other amenities are attractive too.
The ship offers a large pool, Jacuzzis and pool bar, Canyon Ranch spa, well-equipped gym, enrichment lectures, a well-stocked library, casino, card room, duty free boutiques and activities galore, such as bocce, bingo, darts, paddle tennis, ballroom basics, bridge, blackjack, mah-jongg and daily yoga, spinning and pilates classes. Though the Mariner was 99-percent occupied with 700 guests — mainly British, Americans and French in the 40- to 75-age range and some millennials, with 445 international crew members — it often felt intimate as the ship is larger than others with this capacity.
Fabulous food under executive chef Kelly Cochrane is impeccably served by attentive wait staff. With five main restaurants including one serving spa cuisine so tasty it belies its low calorie count, and several surcharge-free specialty restaurants serving Italian and French cuisine and a fine steakhouse, one must pick. Accompanying meals are excellent local and international wines and cocktails also surcharge-free. A pool grill serves burgers, chicken and ahi grilled to perfection. I won’t mention the decadent daily afternoon tea. Clearly, the “crisis” du jour is one of choice.
What separates Regent from other luxury lines is that it’s truly all-inclusive, encompassing several tours in each port for every activity level. It also has some of the best cruise ship entertainment I’ve seen, including Cirque du Soleil-worthy acrobats.
Montevideo, Uruguay
South America’s southernmost capital, Montevideo, is a charming, eclectic city with 1.3 million people, boasting the continent’s highest life quality, in a country with more cattle than people. I took a three-hour morning bike ride directly from the ship. Seeing the city’s most important tree-lined plazas, cathedrals and world famous Teatro Solis by bike was delightful. Continuing along La Rambla, the city’s picturesque 12-mile boardwalk along Rio de la Plata made it perfect.
Later I walked to the Cordon section that hosts Sunday flea markets. Here vendors hawk their wares: antiques, LPs, fruits, vegetables and vintage clothing.
Everywhere one can see Uruguayans carrying thermoses and gourd or ceramic cups from which they drink bitter Mate, a highly stimulating tea.
Back in the Old City, amid elegant 19th-century architecture, the bustling outdoor restaurant scene beckoned with an ice-cold Uruguayan Pilsen Lager.
Punta del Este, Uruguay
Often dubbed South America’s St. Tropez, Punta del Este has a yacht harbor, sprawling estates and excellent restaurants. In 1986, Punta also hosted a round of international trade negotiations leading to the 1994 World Trade Organization’s creation.
Two of Uruguay’s most important contemporary art museums are here. The Ralli Museum, in Punta’s posh Beverly Hills section, is one of five in the world that is funded entirely by Israeli-born Harry Recanati. It houses a marvelous collection of Latin American artists and European post impressionists, with several Dali sculptures, including “Woman in Flames” around the garden’s perimeter.
The other is Casapueblo, formerly the home of Uruguayan abstract artist and favorite son, Carlos Paz Vilaro. Perched atop Punta Ballena’s Santorini-like cliffs sits a stunning white architectural feat resembling an enormous bird’s nest. Vilaro’s prolific, colorful work — spanning 64 years — hangs worldwide, including Washington, D.C., where the Organization of American States commissioned a 500-foot mural.
Two sea days followed. I read, had a good massage and ate several fine meals. Feeling like a self-indulgent sloth, I took a spin class. Beginning to sweat, I momentarily considered giving up those decadent chocolate desserts lovingly prepared by pastry chef Remi Le Goff. However, a quitter I am not, and speedily spun nowhere even faster.
Porto Belo, Brazil
In Santa Catarina state, one of Brazil’s wealthiest in terms of income, public health and education, the first colonizers in 1748 were mainly fishermen and lace makers from Portugal’s Azores.
While some passengers hopped the 10-minute ferry from Porto Belo, a small, charming fishing village to a nearby island to relax, I took the 60-minute ride to Florianopolis island, the state capital. Thirty miles long and 10 miles wide with 460,000 residents, it’s home to three-time French Open winner Brazilian Gustavo (Guga) Kuerten. An easily walkable downtown, its pastel-colored colonial architecture is highlighted by pedestrian streets, a massive 150-year-old fig tree with lore of supernatural powers, an ornate, pink history museum occupying the former governor’s house and a central cathedral.
Since Florianopolis is known for its 42 sandy beaches, we stopped beyond the lagoon for a dip at Joaquina. Acai berry smoothies and pastei — beef or cheese tarts — sold beachfront hit the spot.
Santos, Brazil
In Sao Paulo state, Santos is South America’s largest port. It became infamous in 1899 as Brazil’s bubonic plague entry point.
As with most ports, it’s best to quickly leave. Within 30 minutes we arrived at Guaraja Beach, which resembles a smaller Miami in the 1960s.
Along the wide beach, vendors inconspicuously and quietly pass with their wares: bathing suits, hats, sunglasses and, more importantly, coconut ice cream, frozen acai with granola, plum-sized cashews and more pastei.
Then there are Caipirinhas — Brazil’s national drink made with Cachaca, a rum-like ingredient — served on a beach that made me nearly forget I had to sail onward.
Ilha Grande, Brazil
Comprising 75 square miles and since 1971 a protected reserve, Ilha Grande was once a leper colony, pirate refuge and Alcatraz-like prison.
From Abraao, a tiny pier town with a few beachfront restaurants, it’s a pleasant walk along cobblestone and sand to several beaches and good hiking amid lush vegetation. Permitting no vehicles, the island has a diverse ecosystem including colorful parrots, hummingbirds and stout capybaras, the world’s largest rodent. As I explored the island, I thought of Woody Allen’s comment, “I love nature, I just don’t want to get any of it on me.”
Paraty, Brazil
Originally inhabited by Guaianas Indians, traffic-free cobblestone Paraty was colonized by Portugal in 1667 when it commenced transporting recently discovered gold to Rio de Janiero.
With well-preserved colonial and Freemason architecture, Paraty is just eight blocks wide and five blocks long, yet has four churches, whose congregants were initially segregated by wealth and status as free men or slaves.
During full moons and high tides, Paraty regularly floods briefly via sea wall openings. As Cachaca is made nearby, there are a number of shops where several varieties can be sampled, resulting in increased difficulty negotiating those cobblestones.
Buzios, Brazil
In the 17th-century, Europeans discovered this region originally inhabited by Tupinamba Indians. A place of hilly, rugged vistas, sandy beaches, east-coast surfing and a charming, spirited town of seaside restaurants, Buzios embodies a unique spirit beloved by Rio residents — called Cariocas — who regularly visit.
Buzios gained international acclaim following French actress Brigitte Bardot’s 1964 visit to escape paparazzi. She is honored with a street — Orla Bardot — a life-sized bronze statue, and the town’s only cinema.
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Arriving to Rio by ship amid early morning mist is an ethereal, otherworldly experience. Sugar Loaf Mountain rises skyward 1,300 feet above the island harbor. Soaring even higher, the iconic Christ the Redeemer statue, 98 feet tall and weighing 700 tons, rests atop the 2,300-foot Corcovado Mountain in urban rainforest, Tijuca National Park.
First discovered by the Portuguese in 1502 and Brazil’s former capital, Rio today is a city of contrasts. There is intense natural beauty and mind-boggling traffic, wealthy neighborhoods within sight of favelas, graffiti-covered shanty slums where one-third of Cariocas reside. It is the site of Carnaval, perhaps the world’s largest, wildest, most colorful street party, and beautiful Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, where walking after sunset is ill-advised. With Pope Francis’ 2013 visit, FIFA’s 2014 World Cup, the 2016 Olympics, and recent major political upheavals and record-breaking recession, change is once again in Rio’s future.
I thought William Arthur Ward’s words apt, “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.” Adjusting my personal sail for the long flight onward, one thing was clear: Sampling South America with Regent Seven Seas was realistically delightful.
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Julie L. Kessler is a travel writer, attorney and legal columnist based in Los Angeles and the author of the award-winning book “Fifty-Fifty: The Clarity of Hindsight.”