A tradition survives in Flamingo favorites

Flamingo Restaurants, a family-owned franchise begun in 1950, was known for its comforting diner food and fruit pies, but the restaurants dwindled to just one fast-food counter by 2015, then faded away.

The franchise is undergoing a revival headed by Kaygi Lee, who bought the company from the Nagamine family 10 years ago. In addition to a Flamingo Express at Moanalua 99 — the former 99 Ranch Market in Mapunapuna — two new outlets opened late last year in Waimalu and Waianae.

But they’re nothing like the Flamingo Chuckwagon that nostalgia buffs most fondly associate with the brand.

One of two Flamingo restaurants on Kapiolani Boulevard, the Chuckwagon was outfitted in Old West decor, a life-sized bronco at the door. Walking into the dimly lit interior was like stepping onto the set of an old western TV drama, walls lined with cattle ranch paintings, vintage wagon wheels and cowboy memorabilia.

It may seem hokey, but it offered a homeyness and made going out to dinner more like an adventure.

A prime rib buffet was the big draw, and diners were given big plates they could fill with sides like fried chicken and scalloped potatoes. A full plate was almost too heavy for a kid to carry, but there was always room for an endless amount of the Jell-O you could get with dinner!

Lee said the cost of rent in Hono­lulu is too high these days for him to try to compete with other dine-in restaurants, so he’s sticking to fast-food takeout.

He still employs the same cook, Tom Urbano, and baker Maximo Tagaban, who both worked for the franchise for 40 years. Lee has kept the “famous banana pie” and other 1960s favorites from the original Kapiolani Boulevard location (not the Chuckwagon), he said. Very popular are the baked beef short ribs, oxtail soup and chicken cutlet.

THE FAMILY

The Flamingo Restaurant chain was founded in 1950 by Steven Nagamine, who bought the old Olympic Grill on Ala Moana Boulevard in 1950, changing the name to Flamingo. It moved to Kapiolani Boulevard in 1960. Nagamine also acquired the former Elliott’s Chuck Wagon down the street in 1966, renaming it Flamingo Chuckwagon.

The Chuckwagon closed in 1998, and the original Flamingo in 2008. Restaurants were opened in Pearl City and Kaneohe in the 1980s, and in Waipahu in 1990, but all have since been shuttered.

CLAIMS TO FAME

Double- crusted banana pie and other pie flavors; complete meals at a low price. At the former Chuckwagon restaurant, prime rib buffet and Old West decor.

WHAT’S NEW AND WHERE

Lee opened Flamingo Express at Moanalua 99 in 2012, and for a while operated the Pearl City Flamingo, which shut down in 2015. Rail-transit construction made it too hard for customers to reach, he said.

The Waimalu location opened in September, followed by Waianae in December. Lee is not planning any more openings at this time.

LOOKING BACK

One of the cooks at the Waianae location, Chris Castillo, said his mom worked as a waitress at different Flamingo locations for a long time. Throughout his childhood, his family loved eating there, he said. “My favorite was the sauteed mushrooms. I can’t forget.” His favorite item on the current menu is the teriyaki chicken.

Waianae Manager Candace Keouli said so many regular customers have fond memories of the old Flamingo, and keep coming back, especially for breakfast. She said they’re seeing more faces every day, as people discover the new location.

Keouli’s own memories are of the prime-rib dinner at the Chuckwagon and, of course, the banana pie. It’s still just as good today, she added.

“Old Friends” catches up with long-time local food producers. It runs on the third week of each month. Email suggestions to crave@staradvertiser.com or call Pat Gee at 529-4749.