Float away on a whopper of a margarita at Mexico

Looking for a south of the border escape to let the good times roll? Look no further than Mexico Restaurant, a hideaway that’s worlds apart from its Kalihi neighborhood.

Peer past the overgrowth of prickly pear and bougainvillea framing the entrance, and you’ll be transported to a kitschy daydream of a Mexican cantina. The combination of a Cadillac margarita and the laid-back atmosphere is a one-way ticket to someplace where it’s always quitting time.

THE EXPERIENCE

Unlike other locations that may limit happy hour to an hour or two, pau hana specials at Mexico run from 2 to 6 p.m., Mondays through Saturdays, and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sundays. During those hours, a number of specialty items are only $5. Select margaritas are $2 off and Mexican beers are $4.

Adding to the attraction is atmosphere, which Mexico has in spades. The adobe walls are lined with wood, brick inlay and relics from another continent and another era — including a plethora of animal trophies, such as buffaloes and goats with horns aplenty.

We stopped by on a random Wednesday night. By 6 p.m., as happy hour ended, a solo musician was installed in the corner, crooning Latin American songs with a dose of Johnny Cash for good measure.

If you can get swept away in the reverie, it’s a blissful place to be.

THE FOOD

The happy-hour menu includes mini-nachos, mini-taquitos, or mini-flautas (all available with either shredded beef or chicken) for only $5. The taquitos feature meat wrapped in a tortilla with a chili verde sauce on the side; flautas are similar yet include cheese in the middle, too.

Rounding out the offerings is a nacho plate (with shredded beef, chicken or ground beef topping, $5) and four-piece diablo wing plate ($5), with a delicious, garlicky housemade sauce for dipping.

Two middle-school teachers who work down the street showed us the ropes.

“We’re regulars here,” said Hilary Lambert. “Us teachers, we need to relax after work. And this place is veeeery relaxing.”

One of them, whose New Mexican childhood was steeped in Mexican food, steered us away from the tamales and towards the enchiladas, quesadillas, chorizo omelet and the scallops — all available on the regular dinner menu.

“Those are all delicious. But most of all, we love the ambience,” said Vanessa Race.

“Everyone is always so sweet to us,” added Lambert.

THE DRINK

Mexico does margaritas — big, blended, thirst-­quenching, whopping margaritas in glasses that could double as bowls.

Margaritas are the obvious celebratory choice, and there are many choices. The standard blend is $8 during happy hour, regularly $10. Among those discounted $2 is the Cadillac margarita, the strongest on the menu. It includes 1800 Tequila and a Grand Marnier float, available blended or on the rocks.

(Since we’re all tourists here, do the blended. Live a little!)

Myriad other options will satisfy anyone in your after-work party, including $5 well drinks, $5 house wines, even $5 shots of Patron, in case there’s really something to celebrate.

THE VERDICT

Hawaii isn’t known for superlative Mexican food — and that’s OK. There are enough exceptional international cuisines to fill this island, and then some.

While Mexico is unlikely to break any awards, it delivers a great atmosphere, satisfying eats and drinks aplenty for any occasion, large or small.