Waikiki’s Il Lupino indulges customer tastes

I’ve visited Il Lupino a few times since this spring, when friends who hang in Waikiki tipped me off to its lengthy happy hour. It doesn’t hurt that the restaurant gives patrons the option to be happy even on weekends – the only days that are truly pau hana for me.

In the process, I’ve tried quite a few of the menu options. And I’m here to tell you: Try the pizza! It’s delicious.

The decent prices for beer and happy hour cocktails are an incentive to visit, as well.

THE EXPERIENCE

On a breezy, pleasant day, you’ll probably be tempted to sit outside, where lanai seating allows a view of the Royal Hawaiian Center’s coconut grove and Waikiki’s blue skies. On the lanai, the setting is tropical; that also means that on a hot day, this seating area is also pretty steamy.

There is also bar seating, if you want to keep it casual; sitting at the bar is kind of an indoor-outdoor experience, with sightlines in both directions. I haven’t done this yet, but I’ve seen others choosing bar seating as a good way to get chatty with others who are visiting, and it looks fun.

The dining room itself is designed to feel classically familiar. There are white tablecloths. There is a wall of wine, designed to entice diners. The experience is somewhat incongruous — you might feel like you’ve stepped through a portal into the “old world,” though you’re only a block from the beach — but it’s also relaxing and cool, a welcome escape from Waikiki’s heat and noise during the peak of the day.

What’s nice is that you can sit anywhere you want during happy hour, which stretches all the way from lunch to dinnertime. Choose the spot that feels best when you get there.

THE FOOD

On my last visit, in a group of three, we ordered solely from the happy hour menu, and tasted a tasty variety of Mediterranean specialties.

Of all we enjoyed, the Prosciutto & Rucola Pizza, just $13 for a pizza that could easily be shared by four, stood out.

The crust was the right amount of chewy, with an appropriate amount of crisp around the edges; the fresh tomato and arugula were vibrant and tasty, the thin-sliced prosciutto tangy. A subtle amount of truffle oil gave each bite extra depth of flavor.

On a sunny day, with a beer, this option hit the spot.

Meat lovers will appreciate the Meatball ($10, $13 on the dinner menu, when it is called a Polpettone). This generous portion, made with prime veal, pork and beef, is served with pomodoro (tomato) sauce and parmesan, and easy to share.

Caprese ($10), made with fresh, juicy Hau‘ula tomato, freshly made mozzarella, basil oil and a Balsamic vinegar reduction, was also nicely done.

There are many seafood options.

For a taste of summer, I ordered the Vongole Bianco ($12) on my last visit. Though it’s pricey, it’s delicious, with six plump, fresh-tasting clams served in a white wine sauce.

Also recommended: the salty, oily Anchovies ($6 during happy hour; regularly $8).

THE DRINK

You’ll find a good assortment of cocktails here at $8 (regularly $10 to $15), including holiday faves like the Mai Tai and Blue Hawaii, in addition to Italian specialties such as the Negroni and Aperol Spritz, a daiquiri and an old fashioned, all full-flavored and effective.

Sparkling wine or house white and red are offered by the glass at $6.

Best of all, draft beer is only $4. On my visit, these included Heineken, Peroni and Deschutes Brewery’s Mirror Pond Pale Ale — a favorite of mine. I happily slurped this down on a Saturday afternoon.

THE VERDICT

With Il Lupino’s central location, discounted pricing and classy setting, this is truly an attractive, convenient happy hour offering for Waikiki.