On Tap in Hawaii: Dark beers carry tasty secrets

Fall seasonal beers are beginning to show up, favorites like German- style marzens or Oktoberfest beers, pumpkin-spiced beers, brown ales and more stouts. But there is another style of beer perfect for this time of year that never gets as much recognition.

Schwarzbier, literally black beer, is a German-style lager that is light in body but full of flavor. It’s a style underrepresented in the world of beer. Sometimes called a black pils, the schwarzbier’s dark ruby-brown to black hue often fools people into thinking it is a heavy beer. But that rich color comes from carefully toasted malted barley that gives the beer a wonderful light roasted flavor free of the harsh dry bitterness you’d find in a stout.

Another major difference is in the body of the beer. Where a stout is meant to be thick and somewhat chewy, a schwarzbier is instead light and crisp with a refreshing, dry finish. This is because it is fermented as a lager, providing the beer with a clean flavor not unlike that of a regular pilsner. But it is the addition of just the right amount of roasted barley that creates a delectable balance between bittersweet chocolate and rounded maltiness in aroma and flavor.

Typically between 4.5 and 5.5 percent alcohol by volume, the schwarzbier is easier drinking and lower in calories than its darkness might imply. With a mellow hop bitterness and smooth mouthfeel, it is a beer that you can enjoy both on a cool night and a warm afternoon.

Here are two examples, one local and one German. Both are worth trying.

>> Aloha Beer Co. Gimme Black Pils: This carefully crafted local version of a schwarzbier was just released for the fall season. At 5.5 percent alcohol by volume, it is light in body with a warm ruby-brown color and a tan head that fades quickly.

Take the time to draw in the aroma of this beer as it warms up a little. Toasted cocoa nibs, toffee, coffee and a touch of baked bread sweetness are both pleasing and inviting. Though it looks dark and thick, Gimme Black Pils is light on the palate and finishes with a clean, dry, lingering roast. Upfront are notes of toasted dark rye bread and bittersweet chocolate, followed by a perfect touch of caramel sweetness that quickly fades for a dry finish.

This beer has all the best flavors of a dark brown ale, but with a lighter body and wonderfully crisp finish.

>> Kulmbacher Kloster Monchshof Schwarzbier: This is arguably one of the longest-running schwarzbiers produced. The Kulmbach region of Germany is recognized as the home of schwarzbier, and Monchshof is a classic version of this style.

Monchshof (“moonks-hoff”) means monastery, and is a reference to the monks who founded the brewery that bears this beer’s name. At 4.9 percent alcohol by volume and with a bright carbonation, this schwarzbier pops with chocolate aromas and flavors, and a touch of dark berry notes.

It is a perfect food-pairing beer. The roasted notes go nicely with everything from roasted meats and stews to anything grilled, even salmon.

Tim Golden, a certified cicerone, shares his obsession with all things craft beer on the third week of each month. He is part owner of Village Bottle Shoppe in Kakaako.