Maui’s Dusty Payne returning to competition after near-death experience

Avoiding future professional risk is not in the plans for Lahaina’s Dusty Payne.

The 29-year-old Hawaii athlete is returning to competition, even though he nearly died while surfing at Pipeline in January.

“I’m excited about coming back to Oahu to compete,” Payne said in a news release. “It’s going to be a pretty emotional trip over, I’d imagine, but I’m excited to just get those butterflies again. I’ve missed that feeling. I set a goal quietly to myself during my recovery, and that was to be ready to compete or surf Pipe again during this winter season.”

Payne will be in the HIC Pro at Sunset Beach, with a waiting period that runs today through Nov. 9.

Lesser men would have given up on paddling out in gigantic surf.

Due to a fall while trying to make the drop at Backdoor Pipeline in large conditions Jan. 8, Payne nearly drowned and was rescued and also suffered a fractured skull, a broken jaw and multiple head and face wounds as well as lost some teeth.

“This has been a surreal and life-altering experience for me,” Payne said a month later. “I don’t remember the day of the accident or really any of the 21⁄2 weeks in ICU. I know I’m blessed to be here and just need time to heal. I know things could’ve turned out way different without the help that came to me as quickly as it did.”

In May, after saying he felt like he “lost a good fight with a rhino,” all Payne wanted to know was if he’d be able to do what he loves again.

“My main focus for this winter season is just to enjoy every second of every day,” he said. “I’m so fortunate and grateful to so many people to still be here and have this opportunity again. Sure, deep down I’d love to win the events I’m in, but I’m still in somewhat of the earlier stages of my recovery and going through a process that not many people have gone through before. I’m still getting better and getting more confident with every surf, so that is exciting. (I want to) keep learning how to improve myself so I can be able to do this for many more years to come. And of course, be as safe as possible.”

In 2014, Payne won the Hawaiian Pro in Haleiwa and placed second in the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. That strong finish to the season catapulted Payne to World Surf League’s 2015 championship tour.

Honolulu’s Ezekiel Lau is back to defend his title in the HIC Pro, which is a qualifier for the Vans Triple Crown, the annual series of season-ending North Shore events.

Three surfers — No. 1 Gabriel Medina of Brazil, No. 2 Julian Wilson of Australia, and No. 3 Filipe Toledo of Brazil — are still in the chase for the WSL world title, which will be decided at the Triple Crown finale, the Billabong Pipe Masters.