Cultural reawakening brings Marquesas back from brink

The quest for cultural harmony on Island Earth is central to malama honua (caring for the earth), the mission of the worldwide voyage of Hoku­le‘a and Hikianalia, two traditional-style Polynesian voyaging canoes whose navigators use non-instrument, star navigation.

The canoes recently passed the midway point between Hilo and Tahiti and marked the equatorial crossing at high noon by offering sacred, fresh water from Hawaii through a bamboo vessel into the blue ocean.

Hokule‘a’s first trip to Tahiti in 1976 helped catalyze a reawakening not only of Hawaiian culture, but also of traditional Polynesian life throughout the Pacific.

In the Marquesas traditional life is coming back from the brink of extinction.

Taievau Maraetaata is among the most open-hearted and passionate members of Hikianalia’s crew. He is one of 21 children, born in Fatu-Hiva, Marquesas. We first met in New Zealand in 2012, where I was among the Hawaii crew on Hikianalia’s maiden voyage and Taievau was part of the crew that sailed the Tahitian voyaging canoe Faafaite together from Auckland, New Zealand, to Tahiti. He has vibrant health, has never been ill and has never seen a doctor. When he smiles, his eyes light up with his entire face, and he is more often heard singing than speaking.

Taievau says that Marquesans express themselves primarily through song and dance rather than with words. They come from the sky, he says, which is the origin of all life. The first Marquesans came to Earth in eggs filled with amniotic fluid, seeds (genetic material) and Kana­loa, the spirit of the oceans.

Of all the Polynesian island groups, the Marquesas suffered the greatest population decline from diseases brought by Western contact, including malaria, leprosy, venereal disease and alcoholism.

By the early 20th century, Western diseases reduced the 18th-century Marquesan population of 78,000 to just over 4,000. Taievau’s native island of Fatu-Hiva had close to 1,000 inhabitants until Western contact, when its population dropped to less than 100.

Under French rule and with monetary support that comes through Tahiti, the population of the Marquesas has begun to rebound, as have its ancient traditions and songs.

How many other cultures throughout history have come and gone without anyone left to speak for them? What songs and dances have been forgotten? What knowledge of the stars did they have? What perspectives did they maintain on interpersonal relations and how to engender harmony among peoples? What profound treasures have passed beyond memory?

May the forgotten songs of cultures long gone be rediscovered toward the benefit of many. May those indigenous cultures that have been weakened grow strong again. May those peoples who have become strong walk with an open hand and work to cultivate harmony free of prejudice.

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Note: At the request of the Polynesian Voyaging Society, Dr. Zunin is serving as medical officer for the crews aboard Hokuleʻa and Hikianalia during the first leg of the international portion of the worldwide voyage, to Tahiti. He will fly home July 5.

Ira “Kawika” Zunin, M.D., M.P.H., M.B.A., is a practicing physician. He is medical director of Manakai o Malama Integrative Healthcare Group and Rehabilitation Center and CEO of Global Advisory Services Inc. Please submit your questions to info@manakaiomalama.com.