Maui chef prepares for restaurant’s new chapter

The picture he posted on social media was jaw-dropping.

Chef James McDonald, longtime Valley Isle culinarian, standing in the middle of his former Lahaina restaurant, I‘o, in the process of being gutted.

"Adios @iomaui am happy for the 15 years. On with the new #feastatlele," he posted.

I‘o had won all sorts of accolades and awards in its 15-year run, from the likes of Travel + Leisure magazine (which called McDonald a "hot chef"), industry magazine Nation’s Restaurant News and many others, including local publications.

A postcard from the James Beard Foundation thanking McDonald for his support is displayed on the restaurant website, as are pictures of McDonald and crew, with aloha print-trimmed chef-wear, in the kitchen.

But the restaurant is gone, having closed in December last year.

"After 15 years it was a great restaurant. More of a passion, a labor of passion, more than a source of substantial income," he told TheBuzz.

"The Feast at Lele has been doing so wonderfully, with our partners at the Old Lahaina Luau," that the decision was made to expand it.

The I‘o space had two back-to-back kitchens, one serving I‘o, the other being where food was prepared for the "Feast" luau on the beach.

"It was a chaotic, harmonious orchestration of cooking in that kitchen," McDonald laughed.

That brought to mind the "Hell’s Kitchen" show with two teams of chefs competing during dinner service with chef Gordon Ramsay yelling and demanding excellence of each team member and berating those who don’t deliver.

There is no indication that McDonald operates in the same manner.

"Feast" is no typical luau with buffet service and long rows of diners sitting next to people they don’t know.

It has differentiated itself with intimate seating and individual table service, among other aspects of its operation.

Now "Feast" will have its own reception area in the former I‘o space with a new bar, its own private bathrooms, "and we’re going to put kind of a Polynesian artifact display-slash-museum (there) and create a sort of theater reception, so to speak, to get people excited" and build anticipation for the luau, McDonald said.

The luau seats 150 to 200 people each night, and the outdoor patio at the former I‘o space can accommodate about 100 people in addition to those who will be inside the space.

"Feast" is continuing to operate, and McDonald and his partners are going to endeavor to "limit the amount of downtime, because we have 100 employees."

His partners include those behind I‘o as well as the team behind the Old Lahaina Luau. "I’m very honored to have them as business partners," he said, adding that the Old Lahaina Luau partners also are behind such "winning brands" as Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop and Star Noodle, also on Maui.

McDonald’s 20-year affiliation with Pacific’O, meanwhile, is pau.

At one time McDonald was running or involved in five businesses, including Pacific’O, I‘o, O‘o Farm, the Feast at Lele, off-site catering and special events, and his ‘Aina Gourmet Market at Honua Kai Resort & Spa.

"I found myself being stretched beyond what I should be doing, and it didn’t make sense to continue," especially with two young daughters, he said.

"This was the perfect opportunity to take a small break and, you know, allow myself to rejuvenate … and spend some time with my family."

For the new iteration of "Feast," he is going to "reinvent the menu a little bit," adding that they still will offer traditional and contemporary dishes or interpretations of dishes, but will expand the farm-to-table touches because "that’s what luaus really were, when they began."

With demolition of the old I‘o space well underway, McDonald said, "we’ve got a really good plan, a good layout, and now that we’ve got this ball rolling, it’s pretty safe to say we will open in the first half of 2015."

Reach Erika Engle at 529-4303, erika@staradvertiser.com or on Twitter as @erikaengle.