A colloquy on broccoli

Though young children often think of broccoli as miniature trees, the popular vegetable comprises the unopened budding sprouts of the plant. Broccoli is of the species Brassica oleracea, which includes cauliflower, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, kale, collard greens and all the cabbages.

High in vitamins A and C, and rich in anti-cancer nutrients and fiber, it is a veggie that’s particularly nutritious and just 55 calories per cup.

When purchasing broccoli look for heads that are firm and tight with a color that’s deep green with a haze of purple. Buds should be tightly closed and leaves attached to the stem bright green.

Locally, farmers in Kula, Maui, and Waimea on Hawaii island grow broccoli, as well as Aloun Farms and Sugarland on Oahu. Island-grown broccoli tends to be lighter in color and have a smaller head.

Broccoli has many cousins popping up in supermarkets: broccoflower, a hybrid of broccoli and cauliflower, and Romanesco, with its yellow-green spiral cone shape. Purple and white varieties are not as prominent as the green variety grown in the U.S.

Then there’s broccoli rabe, rapini, Chinese broccoli (gai lan) and broccolini, a hybrid of broccoli and gai lan. These latter cousins have more greens and less head attached to the stem; they also tend to be slightly bitter in taste. These are delicious when paired with assertive seasonings.

Back to broccoli: Keep in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator, unwashed and in a plastic bag until ready to use.

Prepare it for cooking in one of two ways: Cut florets through the main stem, forming lengthwise pieces, or separate the crown from the stem by cutting the crown into florets and slicing stems.

In either preparation, stems should be peeled with a vegetable peeler to remove the tough outer layer.

Steaming, microwaving and stir-frying are the best cooking methods. Of course, broccoli can be eaten raw; in fact, it’s often included on a crudite tray or dressed for a salad.

The following are some tried-and-true and new preparations for broccoli.

Pan-Scorched Broccoli

Cut broccoli into florets and slice stems 3/8-inch thick.

On high, heat a saute pan or wok, add enough olive oil to coat pan well, and add broccoli. Cook, scorching broccoli. When nearly tender, add several cloves chopped garlic.

Serve at once.

Additional seasonings might include shaved Parmesan cheese, chopped anchovies and chili pepper flakes.

Stir-Fried Broccoli

Cut broccoli into florets and slice stems, then cook in boiling water 2-3 minutes. Drain and rinse with cool water.

In hot wok, stir fry sliced beef, chicken or pork. Add broccoli and season with minced garlic, minced black beans, soy sauce or oyster sauce.

Broccoli Salad

Chop broccoli florets into small pieces, saving stems for another preparation (see recipe that follows).

To 4 cups chopped broccoli, add 1/2 cup EACH chopped onion, raisins or cranberries, sunflower seeds or chopped almonds.

Dress with mixture of 1/2 cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons white vinegar. Mix and refrigerate for 1 hour before serving.

BROCCOLI STEM SALAD

1 pound broccoli stems
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
4 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup golden raisins or dried cranberries
1/2 cup toasted almonds, roughly chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Peel broccoli stems and trim bottom end. Thinly slice broccoli stems lengthwise or diagonally then cut into julienne strips.

In bowl, place stems, add vinegar and olive oil, and toss. Add raisins, almonds, salt and pepper, and mix well. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including salt to taste): 300 calories, 22 g fat, 2.5 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 25 mg sodium, 24 g carbohydrate, 5 g fiber, 15 g sugar, 7 g protein

The following recipe is based on Long Cooked Broccoli, a recipe included in the "Chez Panisse Vegetable" cookbook. While we eat broccoli raw or cooked al dente, we rarely cook it for a long time as this recipe instructs. The bright green color is lost, and it becomes very mushy but the added flavors and the spreadable texture make it perfect for topping a cracker or toasted bread. Use this mixture as an omelet filling or serve topped with a poached or fried egg. It is also tasty tossed with cooked pasta.

BROCCOLI SPREAD

Adapted from "Chez Panisse Vegetable," by Alice L. Waters

1 pound broccoli florets and stems
6 to 8 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1/3 cup olive oil
3/4 cup water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon chili pepper flakes or to taste
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
6 to 8 anchovies, minced
Freshly ground black pepper

Cut broccoli florets and stems into small pieces.

In saucepan, add broccoli with garlic, olive oil, water, salt and chili pepper flakes. On high, bring to boil, then reduce heat, cover and cook 45-60 minutes. Broccoli should be soft enough to mash with a fork.

Remove from heat and mash broccoli using fork. Add lemon juice and anchovies, and mix well. Adjust salt and pepper as necessary. Makes about 2 cups.

Approximate nutritional information, per 2-tablespoon serving:

60 calories, 5 g fat, 0.5 g saturated fat, less than 5 mg cholesterol, 150 mg sodium, 3 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 1 g sugar, 1 g protein