Tomatillos, often called Mexican green tomatoes, are not tomatoes at all even though they resemble them. They are in the same nightshade family as a tomato but are more closely related to poha, or cape gooseberry, because of the papery husk that encases it. Native to Mexico, tomatillos are small and green, firm in texture and tart in flavor with hints of apple, lemon and herbs.

In Mexican cuisine, tomatillos are the star of salsas and sauces, raw or cooked. In fact, cooking enhances their flavor. Tomatillos are best simmered in a little water or thrown over a charcoal fire to cook, then blended into a delicious sauce along with onions, garlic and chili peppers.

Look for fresh tomatillos at Mercado de la Raza on Beretania Street or at farmers markets and supermarkets. Husks should hug the green, firm fruit inside; tomatillos should not be fully ripe, and there should be no dampness or darkness in the husk. Remove the husk and rinse under water to remove the stickiness on the surface.

Tomatillos will store well in the refrigerator for several days, but for longer storage, cook and freeze them.

Use them in my favorite salsa for Cinco de Mayo:

GREEN SALSA

6 to 8 fresh tomatillos
1/4 of a small onion
2 serrano or jalapeño chilies
2 cloves garlic
1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon sugar

Remove husks from tomatillos and rinse.

Place in saucepan with a cup of water over medium-high heat. Bring to boil, lower heat and simmer 5 to 8 minutes or until tomatillos are soft. Cool.

Transfer to blender or food processor; reserve cooking water. Place all remaining ingredients into blender and purée. Add a few tablespoons of cooking water for a saucelike consistency.

Serve with chips, tacos, tostadas, meats or fish. Or, use as a sauce for enchiladas, chilis and stews.

Nutritional information unavailable.

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Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.