Expect a mix of flavors, styles at food and wine festival

Chefs Greg and Gabrielle Denton had few preconceptions about traditional Hawaiian food when they arrived in 2003 for a five-year stint at Mala Ocean Tavern on Maui.

Kalua pig from an imu — that held promise. “The idea of cooking a whole animal underground, that was very intriguing to us,” Gabrielle Denton said.

Tried it, liked it. Poi — not so much.

Otherwise, they were open to the taste experiences of a new place, and remain so as they return for the occasional visit.

So that’s one perspective.

Mike Kealoha has been eating local style since childhood, and as chef at the Kakaako branch of Highway Inn, he oversees a full menu of all things Hawaiian, full time, all the time.

So that’s another.

Urban Luau, set for Sept. 9 at the new SALT location in Kakaako, embraces this mixed plate of points of view. The dinner gala is part of the Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival, which began Saturday with events on the Big Island. Urban Luau kicks off Oahu’s five days of culinary indulgence.

Chef Mark Noguchi of Mission and Snackbox helped conceive of the event as a way to showcase such venerable Hawaiian-food institutions as Highway Inn, while seeing what visiting chefs with more upscale inclinations could do with the same age-old flavors and techniques.

The Dentons, now owners of the award-winning Ox Restaurant in Portland, Ore., are in a pipi kaula pairing with Kalihi’s Helena’s Hawaiian Food. Helena’s version of dried beef is the gold standard locally; the Dentons will present an Anchovy- Cured Lamb Pipikaula Sub with Grilled Escarole, a mash-up of Hawaiian inspiration and the Mediterranean roots of Ox.

“We really like the idea of not-quite beef jerky, but air-dried beef,” Gabrielle Denton said. Their research turned up many modern varieties with teriyaki-type seasonings, but they turned to a brine of onion, garlic, oregano, marjoram, thyme, salt-cured anchovies, beer and honey. The thin slices of local lamb will be air-dried overnight in the refrigerator, then grilled lightly and served as a sandwich.

The result is sweet, salty and smoky, she said. “We like big flavors. I think that’s why Hawaiian food has been so attractive to us.”

Kealoha is making an “old-school” sweet potato pudding, koele palau, which he says was a favorite of Queen Liliuokalani.

The basic version is steamed, mashed sweet potato with coconut milk. Kea­loha said his grandmother used to stir in shredded coconut and cubes of haupia. He’s planning to use purple Okinawan sweet potatoes, fancied up a bit with haupia sauce and toasted macadamia nuts.

His counterpart, Brian Sung, pastry chef at Alan Wong’s, is making an Okinawan Sweet Potato Mont Blanc, a take on a classic continental dessert normally made with pureed chestnuts.

Noguchi’s partner for the event is Hi‘ilei Kawelo, executive director of Paepae o He‘eia, the nonprofit that cares for the He‘eia Fishpond. Their ingredient is octopus, or he‘e, to be caught by Kawelo’s father, Gabby. Kawelo will make the family’s version of he‘e luau with the leaves of the taro plant and coconut milk. Noguchi’s Mangrove Grilled He‘e is a complex merger of long-braised octopus and a ragu sauce.

Each menu pairing represents the inspirational and the aspirational.

Noguchi said working with the traditional Hawaiian restaurants was a bucket-list item for him. Chefs of his generation have always drawn inspiration from their groundwork, he said, and from the way their food draws a direct line to Hawaii’s past. “Why would you want to invite anyone else?”

Highlights of the Festival

The Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival began last weekend in Kona, moves to Maui on Saturday and launches on Oahu on Sept. 9. For tickets go to hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com or call 877-574-2849. Several events are sold out; general admission tickets are still available for:

Maui

» Gourmet dining: Maui on My Mind (6 p.m. Saturday, $200) features nine chefs, Sheraton Maui; Legend of Shep Gordon (6 p.m. Sunday, $250) is a six-course meal honoring the legendary promoter, Hyatt Regency Maui

» Also: Grown on Maui, a farmers market at Whalers Village (7:30 a.m. Saturday, free); Moscow Mule Maui Style (11 a.m. Saturday,$65), a mixology workshop, Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas

Oahu

» Ultimate event: Culinary Master Gala — Indulge (6 p.m. Sept. 11, $1,000) is a five-course meal with guest chefs Michael Ginor, Toshiya Konno, Michael Mina and Janice Wong, hosted by Vikram Garg at the Halekulani

» Grazing events: Urban Luau (4 p.m. Sept. 9, see D1); Chefs’ Private After Party (10 p.m. Sept. 11, $95), cocktails and upscale bar food, plus a chance to party with the festival’s celebrity chefs, Japengo & SWIM at Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach; Battle of the Brunch Showdown, Round II (11 a.m. Sept. 13, $115), pits teams of chefs against each other to create a brunch dish with local ingredients, Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach

» Wine seminars (all at the Halekulani): Caviar & Champagne (5 p.m. Sept. 9, $500), featuring bubbles from Cristal, Dom Perignon, Krug and Salon, with French Sturia caviar; Tete de Cuvee Champagne (9:30 a.m. Sept. 12, $250), a sampling of the top champagnes from Krug and Dom Perignon; Opus One (11 a.m. Sept. 12, $250), a vertical tasting with winemaker Michael Silacci beginning with the 1984 vintage; Master Sommelier Favorites (12:30 p.m. Sept. 12, $200), three master sommeliers present their personal treasures

» More libations: Apres Yoga — After Savasana, There Is Sake (8 a.m. Sept. 12, $65) begins with yoga on the beach followed by sake cocktails and snacks, Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort; Ultimate Cocktail Party (11 a.m. Sept. 12, $100), master mixologists lead a seminar at the Study at the Modern Honolulu

» Also: Dream Bigger Dreams: Tips of the Trade (11 a.m. Sept. 11, $75) is a panel discussion targeted at food service professionals about finding success in the industry, Kahala Resort & Hotel; Keiki in the Kitchen (9 a.m. Sept. 12, $5) features activities and cooking demonstrations for families, at the Honolulu Zoo

Anchovy-Cured Lamb Pipikaula Sub

With Herbed Feta Aioli and Spicy Cucumber Relish

» 2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, sliced or pounded into 1/2-inch-thick steaks
» 4 sub or hoagie sandwich rolls (6 to 8-inch long each)
» 4 cups finely shredded iceberg lettuce
» Herbed feta aioli (recipe follows)
» Spicy cucumber relish (recipe follows)

Marinade:
» 16 anchovy fillets in oil
» 1 cup chopped sweet onion
» 1 cup light-bodied beer
» 1 large clove garlic, peeled
» 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
» Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
» 2 teaspoons EACH oregano leaves and thyme leaves (optional)
» 3 tablespoons honey
» 2 tablespoons kosher salt
» 3 tablespoons olive oil

Place lamb into resealable gallon bag. Combine marinade ingredients in blender and blend until smooth. Pour into bag over lamb and seal bag, squeezing out as much air as possible. Gently massage bag so marinade is evenly dispersed. Refrigerate 3 hours.

Remove from bag, draining marinade. Spread lamb on rack over a cookie sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, 12 hours.

Heat grill to high. Drizzle lamb with oil. Clean and oil grill then place the lamb on grill. Let sit at least 4 minutes, then turn pieces. They should have dark grill marks and caramelization in between the grill marks. Cook 3 to 4 more minutes, then remove from grill. Let rest 3 minutes then slice into half-inch-wide strips.

Split sandwich rolls and spread both sides with feta aioli. Place about a cup shredded lettuce on each bottom bun. Top with lamb pieces over length of bun. Drain relish and spoon over lamb. Close the sandwich with top bun. Serves 4.

Herbed Feta Aioli

» 3/4 cup mayonnaise
» 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese, firmly packed
» 1 small garlic clove, peeled and finely grated or minced (1/4 teaspoon)
» 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
» 2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives
» 1 tablespoon lemon juice
» A couple pinches freshly ground black pepper

Combine ingredients in a bowl, stir with spatula, breaking up any larger chunks of feta. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Refrigerate up to three days. Yields about 1-1/2 cups sauce.

Spicy Cucumber Relish

» 1 small cucumber (about 1/2 pound)
» 2 teaspoons kosher salt
» 1/2 cup diced sweet onion
» 1 or 2 Hawaiian chili peppers, thinly sliced into rings
» 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
» 1 teaspoon sugar

Cut cucumber in half lengthwise, then cut each half down the middle again. Cut away seeds; slice thinly. Place in colander and toss with salt. Let sit 30 minutes to draw out moisture.

Dissolve sugar in vinegar; add onion and chili pepper. After 30 minutes add cucumber and toss well to combine. Adjust seasonings if necessary and refrigerate until chilled or up to one day ahead. Yields just over 1 cup.