Creamy coleslaw sheds its caloric consequences

People generally like coleslaw because it’s creamy, tasty and such a good match for barbecue, fried chicken and other foods that set off the happy meters in our minds.

But coleslaw comes with baggage, specifically two suitcases: fat and sugar. That’s largely thanks to the mayonnaise and the fact that KFC has taught us to like our coleslaw sweet.

So in pursuit of the greater good, I spent some time this weekend with piles of shredded cabbage, working on a creamy coleslaw without mayonnaise. Most recipes that tackle this recommend plain yogurt as a substitute, and this does work as a base. Rice vinegar (smoother than lemon juice), mustard and pepper rounded out the dressing, with a squirt of soy sauce for umami, and because this is Hawaii. To make up somewhat for a lack of sugar, shredded apples went into the mix.

I also took the time to draw excess water out of the cabbage by salting it beforehand, to keep the salad from getting runny. If you find this too fussy you can skip this part, but your salad will probably need a sprinkle of salt in the end.

You can see from the nutritional analysis that follows the recipe that it is relatively low in all the bad things. So if your gold standard for coleslaw is the KFC version and you find this slaw lacking in sweetness, go ahead and sprinkle on some sugar. You’ll still come out ahead.

No-Mayo Creamy Coleslaw with Apples
6 cups shredded head cabbage
2 cups shredded red cabbage or radicchio
1 small carrot, shredded
1 small red onion, shredded
2 teaspoons kosher salt or 1 teaspoon table salt
1 small sweet apple (such as Fuji or Envy), very thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
1/2 cup chopped cilantro

» Dressing:
1 cup plain Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon soy sauce

Toss cabbages, carrot and onion with salt and place in large colander in sink. Let sit 1 to 4 hours to draw excess water from vegetables. Toss again and press lightly to remove more water. (If you are on a low-sodium diet, rinse vegetables to remove salt; press out water and pat dry with paper towels.) You will start with about 10 cups of shredded vegetables; after excess water is drained you’ll have about 8 cups. Place in large bowl with apples and cilantro.

Whisk dressing ingredients together. Thin slightly with water if dressing is too thick. Toss with slaw mixture. Chill. The flavors in this salad are mild, and chilling mutes them even more, so taste and adjust seasonings before serving. Serves 10.

nutritional value1:Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving: 70 calories, 2.5 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 5 mg cholesterol, 350 mg sodium, 10 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, 5 g sugar, 3 g protein

Note: Salting the onion with the cabbage mellows the sharp onion flavor. If you prefer, the onion can be added with the apples to keep its more assertive taste.

Variations: The red cabbage and carrot may be substituted with any crisp, colorful vegetable, such as bell peppers, raw beets or broccoli, or a mix. Red onion may be replaced by a sweet, white onion. Total volume of these vegetables and the onion should be 3-4 cups.

Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Write "By Request," Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813. Or email requests to bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com