New Chinatown restaurant scratches the breakfast itch

When I moved back to Honolulu from Kailua a decade ago, I complained about the dearth of breakfast nooks — save for old-fashioned pancake houses — on this side of the island.

I had been spoiled by Kailua’s weekend brunch lifestyle, where it was possible to go restaurant hopping weekly to satisfy varied cravings for anything from omelets and latkes to blintzes, bagels and crisp bacon.

I couldn’t believe there were more choices in that small bedroom community than all of Honolulu.

Well, restaurateurs have finally taken notice.

Mornings are the new frontier. Chalk it up to market saturation. If everyone is already doing dinner, does it make sense to open yet another night-time option?

Then there are quality-of-life issues, as many chefs today are more interested in balancing their lives than were their forebears, who accepted laboring into the wee hours as an industry given.

Scratch Kitchen & Bake Shop is the newest addition to the Chinatown scene, where you can start the day on a high note, and things keep going into the evenings Thursdays to Saturdays.

Second-generation chef/restaurateur Brian Chan, whose parents own the popular Little Village Noodle House, didn’t have to move far. He was in the kitchen at Epic for seven years before striking out on his own, completely transforming the space that once housed Ken Fong.

Scratch is spare, modern and brightly lit. It’s a long shoe-box space with tables up front and counter in the back overlooking the homey kitchen. It has a cozy vibe, with all the right touches for contemporary diners, including a social-media wall where footprints mark the spot to stand for those "I did this" selfies.

The room gets loud with multiple conversations bouncing off walls. Metallic seating can feel icy on first contact, so women may want to wear longer skirts or pants, and clothing that covers their backs.

Just as the name implies, international comfort food here is made from scratch. All-day brunch themes will change quarterly, and Chan chose to open with a melange of soul food, ranging from Southern creole shrimp and grits to Seoul-inspired meatloaf to South American pampas-style steak with chimichurri sauce.

Dishes don’t hew religiously to tradition. During this superheated season, try Chan’s light summer signatures, such as NOLA Etouffee of Kauai shrimp with andouille and scallops served over dirty rice with a citrusy accent.

I love the idea of lingering over a weekend brunch, particularly one like Scratch’s, with such hearty fare as the aforementioned shrimp and grits ($14), which starts with creamy smoked cheddar polenta topped with andouille sausage and fried egg. The Colombian-style staple of calentado ($14) comprises tender spice-rubbed short ribs served over herb-infused sofrito rice.

"Breaky" flows into "Lunchy," which includes a light summer salad ($12) of sweet, juicy watermelon cubes tossed with arugula, feta, Roma tomatoes, cucumbers and pine nuts, with a sweet sprinkling of sherry-soaked golden raisins.

I love the spiced Moroccan chicken ($12) on a kale "Caesar" salad with feta and the heat of harissa sauce. The kale salad makes a comeback at dinner without the chicken.

You’d probably expect a crunchy shrimp Louie ($14) to come in salad form, but here it’s a torta roll sandwich piled high with baby kale, crab mayo and Roma tomatoes, with a side of German potatoes.

The kalbi meatloaf ($14) has been a best-seller, beautifully presented in a cast iron skillet with a bottom layer of bi bim bap fried rice. The meatloaf is painted with kochujang barbecue sauce, topped with a sunny-side-up egg and accompanied by kim chee cucumber slices.

In the evening, Steak Gaucho ($22) arrives on an Instagram-ready platter great for sharing. But what really won me over were the sides. The tri-tip beef comes with crisp smashed taters of white and purple variety and excellent, savory Brussels sprouts with a touch of anchovy and the tang of vinegar and capers.

Sweet Tea Pork Loin ($18), more chewy than tender, was accompanied by a beautiful side of cheesy, pimiento macaroni that I would like to see as an entree to enjoy with one of the salads.

Speaking of cheese, a favorite at my table was the ragu of mushrooms ($14) with truffle oil and white beans served over smoked cheddar grits. So decadent, yet gluten-free! Throughout the menu, gluten-free dishes are noted with "*gf*."

A regular nighttime special is the Tres Tacos selection. When I tried it, the combo was carne asada with shredded baby kale, pico de gallo and lime crema.

It will be fun to watch this restaurant evolve, and I can’t wait to explore the next theme. Hurry, autumn!

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.