Fruit glut means cobblers, crisps, even doughnuts

The apricot tree was in season when we showed up at my uncle’s house in Southern Utah, the fruits at peak ripeness. The tartness in the flesh was almost entirely gone, and more than a gentle handling would break the skin. They were a perfect bite for late afternoon lounging in the dry heat.

My baby found fallen fruit and happily squished and gnawed it as though he’d been given a plateful of birthday cake.

The property was a bounty of fresh fruit, veggies, even nut trees. There was an early and late list of chores to do every day, including goat milking, pig feeding and egg gathering. My Hawaii kids were enamored of this way of life and jumped in feet first.

I’m sure that we were wrapped up in the honeymoon period of such hard work, but it was difficult to imagine that the evening light on those canyons behind their place would ever get old.

My aunt makes real breakfast every morning except Sunday.

Several days there was apricot cobbler or crisp on the table, warm. We scooped it up into our bowls and drowned it with fresh goat milk. Those were perfect breakfasts.

I loved that there was an overabundance of apricot. We took fresh fruit to the cabin up on the mesa, dried slices for hiking and ate leftover cold cobbler for dessert later.

When it was time to leave, we were sent home with bags of pistachios and dried apricots.

They would round out the taste memories, one of my favorite things.

I don’t have an apricot tree, but there are times when we have mango coming out of our ears, papaya ripening so quick we can’t cut them open fast enough, and bananas spilling out of the fruit bowl.

It feels good to make something fresh out of what you’ve picked yourself, and bananas are what we have aplenty this week. These andagi are my answer to those cobbler breakfasts, an ocean removed from Southern Utah life.

Banana Andagi

• 1 egg
• 1/3 cup milk
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 1-1/3 cups flour
• 2/3 cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 apple bananas, mashed (a little more than 1/2 cup)
• Oil for frying
• Whisk together egg, milk and vanilla.

In separate bowl, mix flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Add to egg mixture and stir until just incorporated — do not over-mix. Add bananas and stir until just blended. Some chunks are good!

In pan, add at least 4 inches oil and heat to 375 degrees. Drop in dough by rounded tablespoons or using a miniature ice cream scoop. (Be careful with the task. Avoid splashing the oil or your fingers will get burned.)

Flip after about 90 seconds or when doughnut is dark brown on one side. The frying process should take less than 3 minutes per andagi. Repeat with remaining dough.

Remove doughnuts to paper-towel-lined plate with slotted spoon or tongs.

Cool, but eat while still warm. The exterior crust will dry as it sits. Makes about 16 andagi.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Mariko Jackson blogs about family and food at thelittlefoodie.com.