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A legendary Native Hawaiian surfer who shared his cultural knowledge of big-wave riding and his lifestyle with a group of mainland athletes who would popularize the sport has died.
Henry K. Preece, 83, of Waialua died Nov. 4.
"Henry was the kindest guy. He was the epitome of the Hawaiian," big-wave surfer Greg Noll said.
"He was my best friend."
Preece, born in Ewa, befriended Noll, who was new to the islands. That was in the mid-1950s, Noll said. Preece was one of the few, if not the only, surfers riding big waves off Haleiwa.
The North Shore was not a place frequented by tourists, and those who wanted to spend the night camped out.
"There was nothing but kiawe bushes and cows," Noll said.
Noll said Preece had a love affair with riding Haleiwa’s big waves and would sometimes turn around and blow a kiss after completing a ride.
"She let him get away with what no one else could," Noll said of the ocean.
The first time they met, Preece told Noll to fill a pot with seawater, then proceeded to cook rice in it and shared a meal with Noll that included onions and sardines.
Preece, whose day job was as a city refuse employee, was working on improving surfboards and moving away from building the traditional hardwood boards.
Noll, who later opened a surfboard business, said he worked with Preece on making several balsa wood surfboards.
Preece gave the surfboards to residents who would have otherwise been unable to afford them.
He also worked with youths at schools in Waialua, helping to coach football and baseball.
"If anyone could of been the mayor of Haleiwa, it would’ve been Henry Preece.He was a gracious man who was well liked by all and always had a smile on his face," said Randy Rarick, organizer of surfing’s Hawaiian Triple Crown.
Preece is survived by wife Alberta; son Shannon; daughters Francine Kanae, Marilyn Kealoha and Alvina Adams; sister Alma Kalilikane; 15 grandchildren; and three great-grandchildren.
Visitation will begin at 8:30 a.m. Saturday at Liliuokalani Protestant Church, 66-090 Kamehameha Highway in Haleiwa. Services begin at 10 a.m. Scattering of ashes will follow at Alii Beach Park. Casual attire. Flowers are welcome.
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