Rainy weather is expected to clear for the weekend, but beachgoers are being warned about an incoming northerly swell that will create dangerous swimming and boating conditions for most of the state.
The National Weather Service said a north-northwest swell will bring high surf to the north and west shores of Kauai and Niihau and to the north shores of Oahu, Molokai, Maui and the Big Island.
The swell is expected to arrive Saturday morning, bringing surf of 15 to 18 feet, then peak early Sunday when surf is forecast to reach 18 to 24 feet.
A high-surf advisory will be in effect from 6 a.m. Saturday to 6 p.m. Sunday.
While impacts will be moderate, beachgoers should expect strong breaking waves, shorebreaks and rip currents that make swimming dangerous, the Weather Service said. Beachgoers, swimmers and surfers should heed the advice of lifeguards and exercise caution.
The National Weather Service also warned about the possibility of “above average coastal wave wash” along north-facing shores because of a large high tide Sunday morning.
A small-craft advisory is also in effect until 6 p.m. Sunday. The advisory warned of 20- to 30-knot northeasterly winds and rough seas of up to 14 feet.
Ocean conditions are expected to be hazardous for small watercraft and inexperienced mariners, forecasters said.
Aside from the high surf, a high-pressure system will settle to the north of the state, allowing breezy tradewinds and sunshine to spread over the islands this weekend.
The high-pressure system will move east Monday and interrupt the trade-winds, before moving away to the north Wednesday, allowing the trades to return.
