Related to the potato and tomato, eggplant is a member of the nightshade family and is actually a berry, not a vegetable. There are many varieties, sizes, shapes and colors of eggplant. Inevitably, when cooked, eggplant does not retain its fresh color, and the flesh becomes beige.

This doesn’t mean eggplant can’t be delicious. Bake, broil or fry; just remember eggplant is like a sponge and can soak up oil, so breading is sometimes a good idea.

» Buying and storing: Look for eggplant that is firm, smooth skinned and heavy for its size. They are quite perishable, so use soon after purchasing and store in the refrigerator.

As an eggplant ages, it becomes more bitter; salting sliced eggplant can help remove the bitterness and draw out moisture.

» Uses: Eggplant parmigiano, baba ganoush and Szechuan eggplant are a few popular preparations.

Try these eggplant fries: Heat a broiler and position the oven rack just under the broiler unit. Cut eggplant into 1-inch thick wedges or, if using long Japanese eggplant, 1-inch thick diagonal slices. Place on a baking sheet and drizzle generously with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt.

Broil until very well browned, almost black. Turn over and cook the other side. The eggplant pieces should be crisp on the outside, the flesh inside soft and creamy.

Serve eggplant fries with a dip of mayonnaise and sambal oelek (chili sauce).

Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown. Look for "Fresh Tips" every Wednesday in the Star-Advertiser.