What is that elongated, green squashlike vegetable you see at markets? It’s called hyotan, pu gua, upo or bottle gourd. Beneath its pretty, light green, edible skin is a pale white flesh and a spongy center with small seeds. The flesh has a uniquely smooth melonlike quality and fine texture.

Bottle gourd has a nice crunch when raw and keeps a bit of texture when added to soups or stir fried with pork, both favored local preparations.

Bottle gourd is quite bland, so you can do just about anything with it and your seasonings will shine. Most people cook it, but raw bottle gourd on its own makes for a nice crunchy salad. Grate it and use it instead of cucumber in a raita (yogurt/mint condiment). It’s ideal because it doesn’t release much water.

Here’s a quick preparation: Peel gourd (young ones have more tender skin and don’t need to be peeled). Cut in half and scrape out the pithy core.

Cut into bite-size pieces about 1/4-inch thick. Finely mince garlic (a clove for every cup of bottle gourd). Cut chives or green onions into 1-inch lengths.

Heat a wok or skillet and add a little oil. When the oil is hot, add gourd and garlic and stir fry for a couple of minutes.

Add the chives or green onion, a splash or two of fish sauce and some sambal oelek (chili sauce). Continue to stir fry for 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning; serve at once. Add tofu, pork or chicken if you like.