Smell that cilantro

Cilantro is Chinese parsley, which is also fresh coriander. It has been used for millennia in Egypt, Rome, China, the Middle East, India and Mexico. It is related to Western parsley, but the only similarity is that both parsleys are used by cooks as garnish in their respective cuisines and by herbalists as medicine.

The lacy green leaves are very aromatic and possess a unique flavor, sometimes described as "soapy." There are those who detest cilantro and those who love it.

Cilantro can be used in copious amounts in fresh relishes, chutneys, salsas and salads, or judiciously to add flavor to fish, steamed Chinese style. Thai cooks like to use the roots in long-simmered dishes. A garnish of fresh cilantro is often seen in Asian dishes, especially those with fish and beef. In a Mexican salsa or guacamole, cilantro is a star.

When buying cilantro it should be very fresh, the leaves bright green; wilted leaves will not recover. If roots are intact, place them in a glass of water and cover the leaves with a plastic bag, then store in the refrigerator. If the roots have been cut off, wrap the stems in damp paper towels and place the bunch in a plastic bag. Use within two to three days of purchase.

Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.