Conditions were ideal that September 1998 morning, about a mile and a half off the southern shore of Molokai. The ocean’s surface was as smooth as a Murano vase, and visibility below was more than 100 feet. It was a peaceful, relaxing scene, but veteran angler Mike Holmes knows better.
"If you’ve trolled for hours in an area without a strike, you might think there are no fish there," he said. "But if you put on a scuba tank and go underwater, it’s like being in the middle of a ‘Star Wars’ battle. Big fish are chasing little fish all over the place!"
Out on a fishing trip with his friend, Ikaika Juario, Holmes noticed a 20-pound mahimahi acting strangely. Instead of swimming in forward leaps like a greyhound, it was jumping straight out of the water and coming straight down, landing on its tail.
It didn’t take long for Holmes and Juario to figure out why—a 150-pound marlin was right behind the mahimahi, aiming to snare it for breakfast. The chase went on for about 30 yards, when the mahimahi decided the men’s 25-foot rigid-bottom inflatable boat would be a good refuge and headed for it.
Closer and closer the two fish came. Holmes was sure they would hit the boat, damaging it and propelling him and Juario into the water. The men watched, enthralled, as the mahimahi splashed down 2 feet from the boat. In attack mode, its mouth wide open, the marlin snatched the mahimahi and dove under the boat with its prey struggling to break free.
"Ikaika and I realized we could fish for the rest of our lives and never see a sight like that again," Holmes said. "The only word we could think of to describe it was WOW!"
Embark on an ocean excursion with Holmes and he’ll share many such stories. He grew up on Oahu, relishing the thrills and adventure the sea provides.
"I learned to swim in the Waikiki Natatorium, and my father steered me into surfing, sailing, canoe paddling and other water sports," Holmes said. "The ocean is beautiful, powerful and challenging. It can be unpredictable; you have to respect it. There’s no finer playground in the world — as long as you know your limits and how to read the waves, tides and currents."
IF YOU GO…
FUN HOGS HAWAII
>> Fishing charters: May be booked daily; six-passenger maximum. Sessions are four hours ($428), six hours ($535), eight hours ($642), increasing Dec. 1 ($500, $600 and $700, respectively). Rates include use of the equipment and the day’s catch. >> Snorkeling: Two-hour excursions to secluded areas with reef fish, rays and green sea turtles; four-person minimum. Rates $70; $50 children up to age 12. Minimum age 6. >> Whale-watching: Two-hour cruises early December through mid-May. Same rates and restrictions as for snorkeling. >> Details: Meet 15 minutes before departure time at Slip 11, Kaunakakai Harbor, Molokai. >> Call: 567-6789 >> email: info@molokaifishing.com >> Website: www.molokaifishing.com >> Notes: Boat charters, sightseeing and sunset cruises also available. |
In 1992, after making several weekend fishing trips to Molokai, Holmes and his then-girlfriend, Maria McMillan, decided to move there to start Fun Hogs Hawaii, an outdoor recreation company they had spent two years conceptualizing.
It wasn’t hard for Holmes to leave a 20-year sales career with large corporations in Honolulu. "I was driving three hours a day in bumper-to-bumper traffic and felt that was not what life should be about. I decided to have fun with work — something that had been missing from my life until then."
The couple launched Fun Hogs in 1993, and landed a contract to plan and lead hiking, sailing, kayaking, snorkeling, mountain biking and bodyboarding excursions for guests at the now-shuttered Kaluakoi Hotel. Over the years, Holmes gradually turned Fun Hogs’ focus to boat charters.
From January to May, when the seas are calm and the winds are relatively light, Holmes is busy with whale-watching and snorkeling tours. The demand for fishing trips increases as the water gets warmer and more fish are closer to shore.
"I enjoy fishing because it sharpens your awareness of things around you," Holmes said. "It requires intense concentration. You need to watch out for bird activity, unusual movements in the ocean, objects in and on the water, and how your boat is riding the swells."
The longest barrier reef in Hawaii fringes Molokai’s southern shore. Measuring about 40 miles — nearly the entire length of the island’s southern coast—it is home to papio, ulua, lai, kaku, omilu and more, ranging from 2 to 50 pounds when mature.
For blue-water fishing, Holmes takes guests up to 20 miles offshore, to reel in ono, ahi, mahimahi and marlin. "Deep-sea fish are much larger than most freshwater and near-shore species," he said. "When the biggest fish you’ve previously caught is a 10-inch trout, and all of a sudden you’ve got a 4-foot, 40-pound ono on your line, that’s pretty exciting!"
Although Holmes never tires of the sport, he understands the importance of sustainability, noting that ocean resources are being depleted and need to be managed like a business.
"In the past 10 years, many of us in the fishing industry have begun tagging and tracking various species so we can learn more about their movements and behaviors, and what our impact has been on their populations," Holmes said. "People in Hawaii have been spearing and catching fish in ever-increasing numbers, and we need to know the status of the resource, so it can be managed and enjoyed by our children and grandchildren during their lifetimes, whether it be for food or recreation."
For Holmes, connecting with nature; admiring Molokai and marine animals from a perspective landlubbers don’t see; and "talking story" about his passions — Hawaii’s history, culture and water sports — add up to a rich, fulfilling life.
"There are many people who dream of doing what I’m able to do every day," Holmes said. "I feel blessed. I love sharing the action, excitement and beauty of the ocean with visitors. I’m the chief fun hog!"
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Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based freelance writer whose travel features for the Star-Advertiser have won several Society of American Travel Writers awards.