In Thai and Vietnamese cooking, lemongrass is a key flavoring, imparting a subtle lemon flavor in a host of preparations. Citral is the essential oil in lemongrass responsible for its fragrance and flavor, a substance used in aromatherapy and as an insect repellent.

Indigenous to India and Sri Lanka, lemongrass thrives in Hawaii and is often used as a natural insect repellent for vegetable beds. Lemongrass stalks are long and woody with white root ends; this is the part used in cooking. The stiff, light green tips and leaves are discarded at the point where they branch out from the white ends.

Remove the outer layer of the root end and use the inner portion of the stalk. Crush it with the blade of a knife to release the essential oils; add the stalk to broths, the water used to steam fish or to seafood or curry sauces. Allow it to simmer and release its essence, then remove the stalk before serving the dish. The inner root can be finely chopped with a sharp knife and used in stir-fry dishes, marinades and sauces.

Lemongrass is available at farmers markets and supermarkets. Wrap it in plastic and store it in the refrigerator for up to two weeks or freeze it for longer storage.

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Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.