Aromatic, silver-green, spiky rosemary is an herb with a robust flavor hinting of lemon and pine. Its distinctive flavor can evoke a thumbs up or thumbs down very quickly, but either way, its judicious use can be a delicious enhancement to foods.

A native of the Mediterranean area, rosemary was once considered a cure for nervous-system ailments. It is used primarily in Italian and French dishes.

Rosemary is well suited for lamb, duck, pork and beef. Roast a whole chicken with sprigs of rosemary in the cavity. Chop the fresh needles and include rosemary in marinades; place whole sprigs on a grill to release its aroma as you cook meat or fish. Chunks of potatoes bathed in olive oil, rosemary, salt and pepper, roasted at 400 degrees, will be crisp and flavorful. Rosemary in bread and focaccia is fragrant and tasty.

Use it sparingly or generously in dressings, soups, salads and other dishes, depending on your preference for rosemary’s pungent flavor.

The fresh herb is preferable to the dried, and it can easily be grown in home gardens. Farmers markets are a good source of the sprig or two that you’ll need for most preparations.

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Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.