Mole sauces are classic way to use chocolate in cooking

Chefs who cook with chocolate all agree that chocolate balances out flavors and adds richness to savory dishes.

One of the classic ways to use chocolate is in Mexican mole sauces. Brigitte Moss of Fresh from Haleiwa, a catering company, shared a simplified version of the classic mole sauce, good with grilled chicken or pork.

"Donʼt let the long list of ingredients scare you," she said. "It’s easy once you have all the ingredients ready before you start." Moss added that her sauce also freezes well.

Skya Boudousquie, chef from Ola Loa Wellness, makes mole sauce with raw ingredients. He says that even without every herb or spice, the recipe is worth trying and adapting to your own personal taste.

To start things off is a different approach taken with chocolate. Tiki’s Grill & Bar chef Ronnie Nasuti has created the following recipe for homemade chocolate fettuccine with lamb shanks.

Nasuti said making the fettuccine requires a machine, but inexpensive versions are available at stores such as Ross for about $20.

RED WINE BRAISED LAMB SHANKS WITH CHOCOLATE FETTUCCINE
Courtesy chef Ronnie Nasuti, Tiki’s Grill & Bar

» Pasta:
1-3/4 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for the board
Pinch cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon water, plus more if needed
1 tablespoon minced garlic
3 tablespoons butter
10 mint leaves, sliced into long, thin strips
Pinch salt and several turns black pepper

» Lamb shanks:
2 lamb shanks
Vegetable oil, as needed
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 carrot, roughly chopped
2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups red wine
Herb sachet (Nasuti uses thyme, rosemary, sage, marjoram and Italian parsley)
3-1/2 cups unsalted beef stock
1 tablespoon peppercorns
3 bay leaves
4 tablespoons shaved dark chocolate, divided
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper, to taste

To make pasta, put flour, cayenne and cocoa on a clean wood or marble work surface and use fork to blend. Form ingredients into a circle and make a well in the center; break eggs into well.

Using fork, gradually draw flour mixture into the well, mixing and scraping in a circular motion. Continue until all of flour is incorporated, sprinkling mixture with a little water as needed. Dough should be fairly stiff but not crumbly. Gather into a ball.

Sprinkle work surface generously with flour and knead dough 10 minutes. Cover and let rest 30 minutes.

Roll dough through pasta machine using instructions for fettuccine. Place on pan sprinkled with flour.

Cook pasta immediately or wrap tightly in plastic wrap and chill for up to two days.

To cook, fill large pot two-thirds full with water, add salt and bring to boil. When water has reached a rolling boil, add pasta, stir and cook for 60 to 90 seconds, until pasta is tender but not mushy. Drain pasta thoroughly.

Sauté garlic and butter. Toss in drained pasta, mint, salt and pepper, and transfer to warm plates.

For shanks, in heavy-bottomed pot, sear lamb on fatty side with a little oil, flip over and add vegetables and garlic, cooking on medium heat.

When vegetables are caramelized a bit, add tomato paste and cook gently without scorching.

Deglaze with red wine and turn heat to high, boiling wine until you can’t smell alcohol. Add sachet, beef stock, peppercorns and bay leaves, then cover pan with foil and bake in 350-degree oven until shanks are tender, about 1 hour 20 minutes.

Remove shanks and set aside.

Using fine strainer, strain stock and skim excess fat. Strain again through cheesecloth.

Reduce liquid until lightly viscous, then stir in 3 tablespoons chocolate and butter. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Plate pasta and shanks; pour sauce all over. Garnish with remaining chocolate and fresh herbs of choice. Serves 2.

Serve with favorite vegetables, steamed and sautéed in garlic and butter.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (based on 1 tablespoon oil and not including salt to taste): 1000 calories, 56 g fat, 29 g saturated fat, 360 mg cholesterol, greater than 1500 mg sodium, 51 g carbohydrate, 7 g fiber, 18 g sugar, 40 g protein

MOLE SAUCE
Courtesy chef Brigitte Moss, Fresh from Haleiwa

4 dried ancho chilies (Find these at Tamura, Don Quijote or Mercado de la Raza.)
4 dried pasilla chilies
1/4 cup raisins (golden preferable)
1/4 cup almonds
1 cinnamon stick, broken (Mexican preferable)
1/4 cup sesame seeds
2 teaspoons fresh thyme
1 tablespoon Mexican oregano
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 onions, chopped
2 tablespoons minced garlic
4 fresh jalapeños, minced
6 tomatoes, chopped (Roma preferable)
3 ounces broken dark chocolate
2 cups chicken or vegetable broth
Salt and pepper, to taste

Toast dried chilies in dry skillet for few minutes, turning until they start to change color. Place in bowl with raisins, add hot water to cover and soak 30 minutes. Drain, reserving water, and set aside.

In same skillet, add almonds, cinnamon, sesame seeds, thyme and oregano; toast a few minutes. Grind together (coffee grinder works well).

In same pan, add oil, onion, garlic and jalapeños, and cook until lightly browned. Add tomatoes and cook until softened, about 10 minutes.

Working in batches with blender or food processor, blend chilies and raisins, dried spices, chocolate, onion mixture and chicken broth. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Makes 6 cups.

Approximate nutritional information, per 1/2 cup serving (not including salt to taste): 150 calories, 8 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 200 mg sodium, 18 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber, 7 g sugar, 3 g protein

QUICK MOLE SAUCE
Courtesy chef Skya Boudousquie, Ola Loa Wellness

2 dried ancho chilies
3 dates
1/2 cup chopped tomato or red bell pepper
5 tablespoons sesame tahini or almond butter
1/4 cup cocoa powder or cacao nibs
2 teaspoons lime or lemon juice
1 tablespoon raw apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon fresh oregano, minced
1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, minced
4 large mint leaves, minced
1 to 2 large cloves garlic, minced
1 green onion, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground chili powder
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Orange or lemon zest (optional)

Soak chilies and dates for 30 minutes; drain and reserve water.

Remove seeds from chilies and pits from dates.

Place all ingredients, plus 2 tablespoons of reserved water, into blender. Blend until smooth.

Check for flavor. If not sweet enough, add more dates or honey, to taste. If not salty enough, add more sea salt to taste.

If mole sauce is too thick, thin with more reserved water. Makes 2 cups.

Serve over cooked meats, vegetables and grains.

Approximate nutritional information, per 1/2 cup serving (not including salt to taste or optional zest): 180 calories, 11 g fat, 1.5 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 500 mg sodium, 19 g carbohydrate, 5 g fiber, 5 g sugar, 6 g protein