Conversation turns up bakery’s beloved biscuits

I probably shouldn’t admit this, but my education in biscuits is grounded in Bisquick and Poppin’ Fresh. A biscuit never seemed something to obsess about, and the old easy fix has always seemed plenty good enough.

Apparently I am wrong, though, given the number of people who’ve written over the years to wax nostalgic over the perfect biscuit, usually from a bakery that ceased to existed many moons ago. A popular choice was the version produced by Bill’s Bakery in the 1960s.

I gave up on that recipe years ago, only to learn just last week that it has been sitting on my bookshelf since 2001, when veteran pastry chef Henry Shun published his first "Seasons of Baking." Shun and I were talking about something unrelated when he mentioned biscuits and Bill’s, and one of those dusty old light bulbs in the back of my brain clicked on.

Shun worked at the Kapahulu Bakery in the early ’60s and recalls they sold 14 sheet pans of biscuits every day. ("Bill" was owner Bill Nakamura, whose wife ran a post office inside the bakery.)

Years later when Shun converted his old recipes into "Seasons of Baking," he published Bill’s recipe under the simple heading of "Biscuit," but he says this is The One.

I made a batch and found these to be nicely flavored, crusty on the outside and soft in the middle. But novice bakers should note that this recipe is not Bisquick-easy — your results will depend on how well you handle the dough. Shun warns that the dough will be very soft, and it is. You will need to add flour later as you form the biscuits, and it may take a lot.

"You can put a lot of flour because it’s very soft," Shun says. "Don’t be afraid."

If you’re interested in more of Shun’s old-time baking favorites, email him at seasonsofbaking@aol.com to order a copy of his self-published book ($25; shipping is extra).

BILL’S BAKERY BISCUITS

2-3/4 cups bread flour
1-1/2 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup butter, softened
1 large egg
1-1/4 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Egg wash: 1 egg beaten with 2 tablespoons water

Combine flour, baking powder, salt and sugar; beat in butter with a mixer.

Whisk egg into milk; stir in vanilla. Add slowly to dry mixture, continuing to run mixer at low speed. Once liquid is incorporated, continue mixing 60 seconds. Do not undermix or biscuit will be crumbly and dry. Dough will be very soft and may be difficult to handle. Do not be alarmed.

Turn dough onto a well-floured surface, sprinkle with more flour, then fold and turn dough. Keep adding flour and folding until dough is just firm enough to hold shape and cut (the folding creates layers within the biscuits). You may need a cup or more of additional flour. Press dough to 1-inch thickness. Use biscuit cutter to cut into 2-1/2-inch circles. Place on cookie sheet. Let rest 20 minutes.

In last 10 minutes of resting time, preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Brush biscuits with egg wash. Bake 20 to 25 minutes, until light brown. Makes 15 biscuits.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per biscuit: 180 calories, 8 g fat, 4.5 g saturated fat, 45 mg cholesterol, 350 mg sodium, 23 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 4 g sugar, 5 g protein

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Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Write “By Request,” Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813. Reach her at bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.