When you want a hint of garlic flavor, chives are the answer. There are two types: the thin, long, dark green chive that’s hollow with a delicate flavor and the flat, narrow Chinese chive with a stronger flavor.

We’re more used to seeing the Chinese chive, sold in bundles and often cooked like a vegetable, rather than its hollow cousin, which is used mainly as a garnish. Chinese cooks like to make steamed dumplings with Chinese chives or stir-fry it with beef; Koreans make kim chee with chives. They’re often included in Vietnamese summer rolls as well.

Chinese chives with flowering heads are another form that can be used in a variety of dishes. Even simple scrambled eggs benefit from a bit of chopped chives.

Look for Chinese chives that are fresh, short and thin; long and thick means a more pungent flavor. Examine the chives in a bundle and discard any that are slippery; trim the ends before using. Store Chinese chives wrapped in a paper towel, then placed in a plastic bag, in the refrigerator.

If you see a true chive — those green hollow stemmed ones — do give them a try. Their delicate flavor is a treat, and they are so pretty when snipped and scattered over just about anything you’re cooking.

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Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.