Papaya salads brighten meals

Two things came into my life in 2011: a papaya tree and a food processor. Combined, they made a recipe. The papaya tree octupled in size within months and quickly began flowering and fruiting, but the fruit then entered a state of suspended animation, staying solid green.

Knowing little about papaya maintenance (I don’t even know what kind of tree I have), I tried staring at the fruit and willing it to ripen. This did not work.

Meanwhile, the food processor awaited orders. So putting one and one together, I got two. Two words: papaya salad. This recipe is reminiscent of Thai green papaya salad (som tam), but I am not trying to pass it off as authentic. For one thing, it’s not green. It is best made with papayas that are starting to color but aren’t ripe enough for straight eating.

Thai papaya salad is made with a variety of the fruit that is long and dark green (you can find it in many Asian markets or in Chinatown if you are so inclined). The flesh is pale and the seeds are white. My papayas at this stage are light green on the outside but orange on the inside. You can use just about any type of papaya, though. The flavor is really in the dressing. Just have the confidence to adjust the proportions of the ingredients to suit your taste and to complement the base flavor of your papaya.

Warning: Making this is a messy proposition. Shredding takes time even with the aid of a processor. Peeling must be done by hand, and each papaya must be cut into pieces that fit into the processor. Unless you are ultra-meticulous, you will have shreds of papaya, papaya skin, papaya seeds … all over the place.

Serve this as a side dish or as a garnish on grilled or roasted meats or fish. Its bold mix of sweet-sour-spiciness complements many dishes.

SPICY SHREDDED PAPAYA SALAD

2 pounds unripe papaya, peeled and shredded, about 5 cups (see note)

» Dressing:
6 tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla)
3 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons minced garlic
3 tablespoons sugar
Zest of 1 lime (about 2 teaspoons)
2 small chili peppers, seeded and minced

Squeeze shredded papaya to remove excess liquid.

Whisk dressing ingredients until well-combined. Taste and adjust seasonings (if you are worried about spiciness, add peppers a little at a time). Pour dressing over papaya and toss well. Dressing may seem skimpy, but papaya will give off liquid as it sits. Refrigerate 2 to 3 hours.

Toss, taste and adjust seasonings again. Serves 10. Leftovers will keep about 2 weeks.

Note: Choose papaya that is no longer solid green, but not yet softened. Flesh may be starting to turn orange or yellow. To shred, use a food processor or large-hole grater.

Approximate nutritional information per cup: 100 calories, no fat or cholesterol, greater than 1,500 mg sodium, 25 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 9 g sugar, 2 g protein.

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Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Write "By Request," Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813. Email requests to bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.