Condiments are the real stars at tonkatsu shop Kimukatsu

After I parked my car behind the Waikiki Joy Hotel, an attendant from another lot came running up to the automated pay machine, urging me to move my car to his lot for half the cost. But it was too late. The machine had already accepted my credit card payment of $10.

"Aw, too bad. Where are you going?" he asked.

"Restaurant."

"Kimukatsu?"

"Yes!"

"Oh, it’s so good! I ate there five times already," he said, while offering his list of what to order, including the shrimp tempura, tofu and rice.

"… and the tonkatsu!" I said. And suddenly, this chatty fellow went quiet.

"The tonkatsu’s their specialty!" I continued enthusiastically, hoping to pry some words of wisdom from him.

I got nothing. Oh well. I was hungry and eager to press on. I had heard so much about the great tonkatsu here, and was imagining tender pork cutlet equal to that of Tonkatsu Ginza Bairin on Beach Walk.

Heeding the parking attendant’s recommendations, I went ahead and ordered the negi tofu ($5.50) and breaded fried shrimp ($4.50) for starters. The tofu was beautifully arranged, with slices standing like buildings, or a mountain range covered in the abundant greenery of the sliced green onions, flavored with sesame oil.

The single shrimp looked heavy when it arrived, accompanied by tartar instead of tempura sauce. At first I despaired, but was elated to find the coating light and crispy, and the shrimp itself fried perfectly, not bouncy and overcooked.

If the shrimp was this good, I imagined the specialty would be stellar indeed, but I ended up liking everything but the tonkatsu.

The restaurant is casual, with a simple, clean aesthetic. Windows open to the backside of DFS Galleria Waikiki, which is to say, not much of a view.

Kimukatsu specializes in mille-feuille-style tonkatsu. Instead of a single cutlet, you’re presented with a cutlet formed by layer upon layer of thin-sliced pork. They claim 25 layers, but anyone who keeps count will find the number varies from 10 to 20 layers.

The first time I visited, I found the multiple layers easy to bite into, like layers of turkey cold cuts, but the sum of it was exceedingly dry. I attributed the popularity of this place to novelty and appreciation of the work that goes into creating the layers. Another part of the attraction is a handful of dipping sauces that add back needed moisture, and flavor. The sauce is $1 each at night, but gratis by day. And, though not on the menu, traditional tonkatsu sauce is one of the free condiments at the table.

Garlic butter is the richest of the sauces. Salt and spring onion is a mix of soy sauce, sesame oil and green onion. The other ume shiso ponzu, yuzu ponzu and grated daikon selections are lighter and tasked with balancing the tonkatsu’s oil content. But, unlike the typical grease sponge, the tonkatsu served here is remarkably light on canola oil. Afterward, you won’t feel a trace of oily residue on your tongue.

Newbies must start with the baseline Original Kimukatsu set ($19), a plain pork cutlet served with a heaping bowl of shredded cabbage. For $4 more, you can make that a full meal with miso soup, pickles and the soft, cooked-to-order rice mentioned by the parking attendant. The cutlet is sliced into eight bite-size pieces that allow you to appreciate the layers of pork.

The basic tonkatsu menu also comprises, at $19 each: cheese (American), black-pepper, and garlic-flavored cutlets.

Special Kimukatsu sets are $22 and come with the rice set; these cutlets are drenched in their own sauce so are less dry than the basic sets. Choose from the Kimukatsu Special Sauce set, a cheese-centered cutlet with heavy demi-glace; a Nanban set, a cutlet topped with sweet and tartar sauces; tonkatsu okonomiyaki; and garlic okonomiyaki.

If you want to sample the various flavors, gather up your friends and splurge on combos of three to six flavors, ranging from $39 to $76. Add $1 more per Special Kimukatsu set.

I was told by a fan of the restaurant to go back when business is slow and they take more time with the katsu. This time around, I got the Kimukatsu Special Sauce set, and it was moist, but I think half the credit comes from having been drenched in sauce.

Prices are the same day or night, and the day menu includes a katsu sandwich ($8.99).

The allure of dining at night is an appetizer list that also includes fried chicken ($6.50), a shrimp and avocado salad ($7), potato salad studded with smoky chopped sausage ($6.50), squid shiokara ($4.50) and wasabi tako ($4.50). There’s also a giant Kobe beef meatball in a katsu shell ($4.50). The beef was delicious with both the garlic butter, and salt and spring onion sauces.

It’s worth saving room for desserts of ice cream, panna cotta and black sesame panna cotta ($4.50). Don’t kid yourself about "just tasting" the light sesame treat. You’ll likely polish it off with a few quick bites.

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Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.