Despite the advice of my doctor regarding sodium, and despite last week’s news regarding processed meat (it’s not kinda bad for you, it’s REALLY bad for you), I love corned beef.

But out of respect for that learned advice, I eat it only around St. Patrick’s Day. Although sometimes I eat it more than once, in celebration, you know.

This is the time of year I look out for recipes that make it sound even more wondrous. This year a suggestion came from the National Cattleman’s Beef Association, for Pepper-Apricot Glazed Corned Beef. The idea is to prepare corned beef the usual way — simmer in water until really, really tender — then remove the brisket; smear it with a mixture of 1/4 cup apricot preserves, 1 tablespoon vinegar, some minced garlic and pepper; and run it under the broiler until nicely glazed.

You’re taking the natural saltiness of corned beef and adding the sweetness of the preserves, the tang of vinegar and the mild heat of garlic and pepper. Your taste buds should be impressed.

I used that recipe as a starting point, but what I really wanted was a corned beef cooked without water. Baking corned beef like a roast rather than simmering it like a stew results in a firmer texture and deeper flavor. Most recipes call for baking with a mustard coating, so the idea of using fruit preserves sounded like a good twist.

I used guava jam, but you could use any type you like. I also tried this in a slow-cooker, which I would highly recommend if you want to make this on a workday. It takes about 10 hours to cook, equivalent to an eight-hour shift plus commute time, which means you can start it before you leave, then serve it almost as soon as you get home.

With the waterless method, it is best to rinse the brisket well before cooking to remove some of the salt. Without water, flavors are more concentrated, which means the natural saltiness is more pronounced.

And by the way, although you are not starting with water, you will end up with a lot of liquid, which is how the meat comes out so tender. Corned beef gives off a lot of its own liquid during cooking. My slow-cooker version was swimming in about 2 cups of liquid by the time it was done. Dump that. It’s very salty.

End result: quite delicious. And the leftover slices, served cold — even better.

ROAST CORNED BEEF WITH GUAVA JAM

3 pound boneless corned beef brisket
Spice packet included with corned beef
1/4 cup guava jam
6 small white or red potatoes, scrubbed
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Place brisket in dish and cover with water. Let sit 30 minutes, then drain water and rinse brisket well to remove some salt.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Place brisket in baking pan, fat side up. Sprinkle with contents of spice packet, then spread jam evenly on top. Surround with whole potatoes. Cover pan tightly with foil. Bake 2-3 hours, until brisket is tender.

Open foil and remove potatoes. Drain any liquid from pan. Drizzle the beef with vinegar, then place under broiler for 5 to 10 minutes, until top is browned. Serves 6.

Slow-cooker version: Prepare meat and potatoes as directed above, but place in a 5- or 6-quart slow-cooker. Cook on low 10-12 hours, until tender. Place brisket in roasting pan; drizzle with vinegar and broil. Discard liquid that collects in crock; it will be very salty.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving: 650 calories, 36 g fat, 12 g saturated fat, 180 mg cholesterol, greater than 2,000 mg sodium, 44 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber, 12 g sugar, 38 g protein

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Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Write "By Request," Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or email bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.