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These days branding is everything, so it’s unusual to find a company swapping a big-brand name for an untested one.
You might have noticed Sizzler restaurants have disappeared, and in their place in four locations — Dillingham, Pearlridge, Waipahu and Kailua — is a GoKo Steak and Salad Bar restaurant. Those familiar with Sizzler will walk inside and feel a sense of déjà vu in the decor, setup, procedures and menu. That’s because they’re still owned by former Sizzler franchisee Clinton Goo, whose last name provides the “Go” that forms one half of the current restaurant’s name (“Ko” is short for friend and former business partner Bert Kobayashi).
The new entity is similar enough to Sizzler so as not to scare away former patrons. But, as a fast, casual steakhouse concept born in the happy days of 1958, when life was simpler and choices were few, it wasn’t luring in the next generation, hard-wired for change and novelty. Goo wanted to introduce more local flavor to the menu, and the only way to do that was to break away from the franchise formula and go his own way.
A refresh of the interiors would have been nice, but GoKo appeals to the comfort crowd who can overlook the decades-old patina. These diners would rather not fuss over their own appearance to eat on a typical day, either, but find it special enough to dress up for a family occasion or Sunday brunch when the highlight is the Endless Breakfast Salad Bar, offered for $17.99 on weekends and holidays. The Endless Breakfast Salad Bar includes the daily salad bar, with the addition of bacon, sausages, eggs, French toast, pancakes, fried chicken and waffles, plus a couple of cold seafood offerings such as surimi and small boiled shrimp.
The regular salad bar is no slouch, starting with your basic lettuce, slaw and spinach, several potato salads, choi sum, edamame, guacamole that hasn’t been stretched with mayo, and just about any salad topper you could want, from onions to croutons, shredded carrots and bacon bits, to kim chee, mushrooms, cucumbers, bell peppers and corn on the cob. There’s also Jell-O, orange wedges and sliced papaya. And if you find it impossible to stay filled up with greens, there’s also a fast-food caliber taco bar and spaghetti and meatballs marinara, plus such desserts as brownies and chocolate pudding. The cost is $13.99 during lunch Mondays to Saturdays until 4 p.m., $17.99 for dinner and $7.99 when added to an entree. Since visiting GoKo, I’ve talked to fans of the old Sizzler who said they never really went for steak, but for the salad bar. Important to know: The cheese bread is still included on the menu.
Because the restaurant still approaches business as a fast-casual concept, I find it a little strange to order a steak meal at a window and would prefer 100 percent table service — this isn’t McDonald’s, and there are a lot of choices to be made while on your feet. If you’re part of a family entourage, the orders can be unwieldy. I happened to be in the back of a long line waiting for lunch at the Dillingham location one day, and one of the groups was a family of five adults of the sort who couldn’t be troubled to think of what they wanted until they got up to the counter and then proved indecisive, playing a game of 20 questions regarding what’s on the menu and what’s good. My friend reminded me to stop rolling my eyes.
I don’t know how much time or labor that saves when, once you’ve placed your order, you’re assigned a waiter who is responsible for fulfilling that order. From Dillingham to Pearlridge, they are excellent in bringing everything you wish and making sure you are happy with your order. How hard would it be for them to take your order after you’ve had time to sit down and mull over the menu?
In addition to breakfast and the salad bar, the steaks are still the main attraction, starting with the 6-ounce tri-tip for $12.99, served with your choice of baked potato, mashed potato or fries. Most people find it hard to resist a baked potato with sour cream and chives. Fries are coated with a tangy lemon-pepper seasoning that most people don’t question, but if you prefer your fries plain, you can make that request.
If you can afford to splurge, try the more flavorful 14-ounce rib eye ($24.99) fresh cut on the premises, or 8-ounce slow-roasted pulehu prime rib.
The one-third-pound burgers ($9.79) here are not likely to top any best lists, but are assisted considerably when topped with guacamole, for $1 more.
A Korean BBQ burger ($10.49) is one of the new local additions to the menu, as are furikake chicken ($15.49), katsu chicken ($15.49) and furikake salmon ($17.29). Although GoKo aims for consistency from restaurant to restaurant, you’ll probably find differences if you tend to travel around for meals. The menu board at Dillingham said the latter comes with a choice of wasabi aioli or tartar sauce, but at Pearlridge it was served with wasabi aioli and honey miso aioli. I enjoyed sampling both aiolis the Pearlridge way. The menu at Pearlridge also seemed to offer more options, such as a bacon-wrapped steak.
On a whole, Goo seems sensitive to the needs of the average diner and, through GoKo, aims to please.
There’s a keiki menu for ages 10 and younger, with such dishes as macaroni and cheese ($5.99), cheese pizza ($6.49) and burger and fries ($6.99), with prices that include a soft drink and soft-serve ice cream for dessert. And kids eat free Tuesdays with purchase of adult meal.
Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.
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