Those unfamiliar with the white wines of the Mediterranean should consider one standout grape variety: vermentino.

Some of my favorites come from Italy’s Ligurian Coast, Sardegna and the Tuscan coast. Another hot spot for this variety is southern France, where it is often called rolle.

At its best, well-grown and well-made vermentino is not only interesting to drink, but also food-friendly.

A few recommendations:

» Sella & Mosca Vermentino de Sardegna (about $12 a bottle): Sella & Mosca is a winery with large vineyard holdings, especially in the northern part of the picturesque isle of Sardegna, off the west coast of Italy. This tasty, invigorating wine is ideal for simple seafood preparations. It’s also a great thirst quencher suited for summer-weather sipping, especially if served well chilled. The most important point, however, is that this wine overdelivers on quality for its price.

» Especially well suited for the dinner table is the 2010 La Spinetta Vermentino (about $22). Grown in lime-influenced soils near the Tuscan coast and overseen from vine to bottle by Italian superstar winemaker Giorgio Rivetti, this is a classy version of vermentino. This wine captures the briny sea air, which makes it captivating and ethereal. It has wonderful intensity and concentration without a trace of heaviness. For wine lovers seeking an alternative to chardonnay or sauvignon blanc, this is a must-try. Serve with grilled or crispy fish, where it can best work its magic.

» For the adventuresome, the Maestracci e Prove Vermentino (about $20) is a masculine, stony style of vermentino. That its grapes are grown in the granitic soils of Monte Grossu’s foothills, on the rugged island of Corsica off the coast of southern France, accounts for some of its virility. It is a white wine capable of handling rich fish such as swordfish and hearty seafood preparations.

Since these wines are served in regional cafes and bistros during the summer, I believe they are also appropriate for sipping in Hawaii’s year-round warm weather.

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Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Find him at facebook.com/chuck.furuya.