It’s nice to see Chukaya Sea Dragon Table has moved into the beautiful glass storefront that formerly housed Jin Din Rou. That restaurant was so well designed that the new tenant has kept the interior intact.

But where the Japanese have perfected the Japa•nese-Italian restaurant, they have yet to conquer Chinese cuisine, and this is the dilemma. 

Those expecting Chinese food will be left disappointed by the hybrid. It’s not so bad that the typical roast duck or char siu pork bun is replaced by kakuni pork bun (two pieces for $4.80), but it is a problem when the bun is leaden and soggy, not the fluffy pancake dim sum restaurants do so well.

Xiao long bao, or here, sho ron po (four pieces for $4.80), is similarly sunken and soggy, without the benefit of much soup inside the pork dumplings.

So far, most people I’ve talked to have agreed the tan tan men ($9.50) is the best thing on the menu. The kakuni ramen and miso ramen are also worth trying.

At 1491 S. King St. Call 941-2929.

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"Bite Size" profiles the small, the new, the unsung.