Hollandaise is one of the five French "mother" sauces upon which the cuisine is built (the others, if you’re counting, are bechamel, veloute, tomato and Espanole, or brown sauce).

It also may be the sauce for which the phrase "moderation in all things" was coined. Or if it’s not, it should be. Hollandaise is pretty much straight egg yolks and butter, with some lemon juice. In other words, a heavy dose of cholesterol and fat, with some acidity to ease the richness.

It’s the sauce you’ll find on eggs Benedict, and if you’ve ever had that dish for breakfast, you may have noticed moderation is simply not in play.

But I am not the nutrition police. I’m a fan of eggs Benedict, myself, and I say, if you want it, enjoy it.

This has all been a round­about way to get to Carol Hanlin’s request for the hollandaise from the old Tahitian Lanai. "I judge all eggs Benedict by that delicious sauce and have never found one to match it," she wrote.

The recipe has run in the newspaper a couple of times over the years, so it was easy to dig up, but this time I thought I’d try out ways to lighten up the formula.

A very tasty substitute turned out to be a sauce made with yogurt — it provides the tang you’d normally get from lemon juice, and thickens smoothly using far fewer egg yolks than the classic recipe. This sauce would pair well not only with eggs, but also vegetables and fish.

I didn’t try to match the Tahitian Lanai version. It’s hard to compete with a cup of butter when it comes to taste. But look at the nutritional comparison: 170 calories and 18 grams of fat for the classic; 25 calories and 1 gram of fat for the lighter version.

You wouldn’t even have to be moderate.

Tahitian Lanai Hollandaise

5 egg yolks
6 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 cup warm clarified butter (see note)

To make sauce: Place all ingredients except butter in top of a double boiler over simmering water. Heat gently and whisk slowly for 2 minutes. Whisk in clarified butter, a little at a time. Continue stirring 8 to 9 minutes, until thick. Keep warm.

Note: Clarified butter is melted butter that has been strained to remove all solids.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per 2 tablespoons: 170 calories, 18 g fat, 11 g saturated fat, 110 mg cholesterol, 50 mg sodium, 1 g protein, no carbohydrate, fiber or sugar

Low-Fat Hollandaise

1 cup nonfat plain yogurt
2 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
Pinch salt

Fill bottom of double boiler half full with water and bring to boil. Lower heat to simmer (see note).

In top half of double boiler, whisk yogurt with egg yolk until well combined. Place over simmering water. Stir constantly until sauce thickens (be patient; this will take 10-15 minutes, but don’t stop stirring or you’ll get lumps). While sauce is thickening, stir in mustard and salt, taste and adjust seasonings. Makes about 1 cup.

Note: If you do not have a double boiler, use a small pot and a heatproof bowl wide enough to fit over the pot. The bottom of the bowl should not touch the water. Or place bowl in a steamer basket or in a heatproof sieve set over the water.

Flavor variations: Stir in a sprinkle of dill, hot sauce or grated Parmesan cheese to pair the sauce to your dish. If your diet can take a little butter, stir in a pat for added richness.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per 2 tablespoons (not including salt to taste): 25 calories, 1 g fat, no saturated fat, 45 mg cholesterol, 50 mg sodium, 2 g carbohydrate, no fiber, 2 g sugar, 2 g protein

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Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Write "By Request," Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or email requests to bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.