It was 10 years ago that Alexander Payne’s quirky little film, "Sideways," landed on the silver screen. Merlot was trashed. Pinot noir began its ascendancy. A Saab bit the dust. And as sad sack novelist Miles and his about-to-be-married buddy, Jack, wove their way past California country lanes and vineyards, it suddenly dawned on filmgoers that this was not Napa.
"Sideways" put Santa Barbara’s wine country on the map — and won an Oscar, two Golden Globes and the American Film Institute’s movie of the year prize, to boot. So it’s no surprise that their wineries have been celebrating the big anniversary all year long with movie screenings, merlot tastings and "Sideways" dinners. You can join the Sideways Wine Club, follow the #Sideways10 hashtag on Twitter, buy the newly re-released anniversary edition of the movie, or peek at backstage images from the film in wine tasting rooms. Heck, you can even take tours of the "Sideways" sights.
But why would you, when it’s so easy — and fun — to do it yourself?
So,we watched the Blu-ray, downloaded the movie map and uploaded the film’s jazzy soundtrack on Spotify. Then we hit the road, ready to experience just as many of those iconic scenes as we could.
The appealing ones, anyway. Just because Miles coped with literary rejection by guzzling the spit bucket at Fess Parker Winery didn’t mean we had to.
|IF YOU GO …
‘SIDEWAYS’ ITINERARY …
Miles and Jack took an entire week to sip, nosh, golf and get into considerable trouble during their "Sideways" road trip, but this area is the perfect size for a weekend getaway too. Pick from the seven wineries that served as filming locations for the movie, or indulge in a smaller serving — grab an "aebleskiver" to go at the Solvang Restaurant window, hit the tasting rooms on Solvang’s Mission Drive or go to the Los Olivos Tasting Room and Wine Shop (2905 Grand Ave.). Just make sure you visit the ostriches.
Andrew Murray Vineyards, 2901 Grand Ave., Los Olivos; 5095 Zaca Station Road, Los Olivos; www.andrewmurrayvineyards.com
Fess Parker Winery, 6200 Foxen Canyon Road, Los Olivos; www.fessparkerwines.com
Fiddlehead Cellars, 1597 E. Chestnut Ave., Lompoc; www.fiddleheadcellars.com
Firestone Vineyard, 5017 Zaca Station Road, Los Olivos; www.firestonewine.com
Foxen Vineyard and Winery, 7200 Foxen Canyon Road, Santa Maria; www.foxenwinery.com
Kalyra Winery, 343 N. Refugio Road, Santa Ynez; www.kalyrawinery.com
Sanford Winery, 5010 Santa Rosa Road, Lompoc; www.sanfordwinery.com
Hitching Post II, 406 E. Highway 246, Buellton; www.hitchingpost2.com
Solvang Restaurant, 1672 Copenhagen Drive, Solvang; www.solvangrestaurant.com
Days Inn Windmill, 114 E. Highway 246, Buellton; daysinnbuellton.com
Petersen Village Inn, 1576 Mission Drive, Solvang; www.peterseninn.com
Fess Parker Wine Country Inn, 2860 Grand Ave., Los Olivos; www.fessparkerinn.com
OstrichLand USA, 610 E. Highway 246, Solvang; www.ostrichlandusa.com
"Sideways" film stills and more, www.santabarbaraca.com/sideways10/
‘SIDEWAYS’ IN A NUTSHELL
Directed and co-written by Alexander Payne, "Sideways" follows the exploits of Miles (Paul Giamatti) and Jack (Thomas Haden Church) in the days leading up to Jack’s wedding. Miles is a divorced, gloomy writer and wine lover, determined to show his old college roommate the joys of California’s wine country — and the noble pinot noir grape — before Jack settles down. On their first night at Miles’ favorite restaurant, The Hitching Post II, Jack decides their road trip agenda needs one more thing: a pre-wedding fling. Soon the pair are hanging out with Hitching Post waitress Maya (Virginia Madsen) and winery pourer Stephanie (Sandra Oh), playing golf, sipping wine and getting into trouble. Also, there are ostriches.
So we snoozed in Solvang, noshed at The Hitching Post, communed with ostriches and sipped our way from winery to winery. And along the way, we learned a few key things: "Sideways" may be 10 years old this year, but like a fine wine, it has aged exceedingly well. Merlot is fab, no matter what Paul Giamatti’s character says. And using a movie as vacation planning inspiration is, well, inspired.
If you have a full week, by all means explore the entirety of the "Sideways" itinerary, from golf at the Alisal Guest Ranch to sauvignon blanc, chic charcuterie and aboriginal artwork at Kalyra — where Miles and Jack met Stephanie, the flirty tasting room pourer played by Sandra Oh. The movie’s filming locations, which included seven wineries, four bistros and bars, one farmers market and a ranch populated by fuzzy flightless birds, could easily fill a vacation.
Just a weekend? The past decade has seen an explosion of wineries, tasting rooms and wine bars here. So, you could happily stroll and sip the day away and never leave Solvang, where 20 tasting rooms line the oh-so-Danish streets. Stay at the Petersen Village Inn, and you can simply stroll back to that cozy room. Miles and Jack may have stayed at "the Windmill," the distinctive Days Inn motel in Buellton, but that would involve driving.
Besides, the Petersen is lovely. Breakfast is included — Danishes, of course — and it’s a block away from the Solvang Restaurant, where the "Sideways" duo stopped for breakfast. A takeout window there does a brisk business in jam-drenched, powdered sugar-dusted "aebleskivers" — ball-shaped Danish pastries — so you can get a post-breakfast sugar rush before planning the rest of your day.
Kalyra lies 3 miles to the east. Charming Los Olivos and its wineries — including Fess Parker or "Frass Canyon," where Miles drowned his sorrows so memorably — and boutiques lie 5 miles north. And two don’t-miss attractions — OstrichLand and The Hitching Post — sit less than 3 miles to the west.
We weren’t sure what to expect at OstrichLand USA. The fuzzy birds are a passing backdrop in the movie, just one more quirky detail in a quirky film. But it’s not every day that you get to feed ostriches and emus, admission is just $4 and hey, why not? The experience is equal parts awe-inspiring and intimidating, hilarious and worrisome.
Ostriches are enormous, for one thing — 350 pounds, 8 to 9 feet tall — and they can run 40 mph. So, as we walked out on the viewing deck, a bowl of ostrich kibble in our hands, we found ourselves face to face with giant, voraciously hungry birds, standing a mere 3 or 4 feet below — or racing across the rugged terrain straight at us. And what they wanted was what was in our hands.
We backed up to nervously reread the safety guidelines pinned to the wall, then designated an ostrich feeder (who was not me) who carefully held out the bowl, retaining a death grip on the long handle. The birds, both the giant ostriches and smaller, fringe-coated emus, were amazing to watch, their faces ridiculously expressive — and they seemed to have mastered the art of the photo bomb, popping up behind someone’s shoulder just as the camera snapped.
Time your foray just right, and you can continue on to The Hitching Post II, which is practically next door. Novelist Rex Pickett hung out in the bar of this classic Santa Maria-style steakhouse while he was writing the book that inspired the movie. And Virginia Madsen, who plays Maya, the Hitching Post waitress, worked in the kitchen and bar before filming began to get the feel of the place, says owner and executive chef Frank Ostini.
It’s the perfect place to end your "Sideways" sojourn, sipping Miles’ favorite pinot noir with a flatiron steak and baked potato — and the full knowledge that you, at least, will not behave badly, lose your wedding ring or (spoiler alert, 10 years late) get your nose broken by Sandra Oh.
By Jackie Burrell, San Jose (Calif.) Mercury News