Neighbor islands emerge as a last frontier for beer

Hawaii craft-beer fans are known for traveling to the mainland to stock up on favorite brews unavailable in the islands. But in the past few years, distribution of many favorites has begun in Hawaii.

For Oahu residents, however, there’s still the frontier of the neighbor islands to consider. A number of Maui beers, for instance, are well worth a quick island hop to experience.

Late last year Maui Brewing Co. and Stone Brewing Co. joined forces to create Maui Stone Craft Beverage, a selection of more than 20 craft beer brands available exclusively on Maui. These included highly sought-after breweries such as Stone, The Bruery, The Lost Abbey and Oskar Blues.

Maui Stone Craft intends to expand distribution to the rest of the state eventually, so some might choose to wait it out. But I think the following four beers, all available at Whole Foods Market Maui, are well worth taking a flight:

» Stone Brewing Co. was built on bold, hoppy beers, and they set the standard for assertively flavored beers with classics such as Arrogant Bastard. Now there’s Barrel Aged Arrogant Bastard, released in six-packs.

This version takes the original caramel and toasted malt base and layers it with luscious notes of oak and vanilla. Its bitterness, punched up with grassy and piney hops, balances the malt sweetness.

» The Lost Abbey, in San Diego just around the corner from Stone Brewing, makes completely different styles of beers. Known for creating unique Belgian-style ales, The Lost Abbey has gained a cult following.

Red Barn is a delicately spiced farmhouse saison that’s light on the tongue and wonderful with food. Ginger, black pepper, orange peel and grains of paradise create layers of subtle, complementary flavors. Pale straw in color with a soft malt base, Red Barn is bone-dry and crisp, leaving just a hint of tartness after each sip.

» I was lucky enough to find a bottle of The Bruery’s latest release, Bruery Terreux Sour in the Rye, during a recent trip to California. But Maui folks are even luckier since it’s now available there.

Sour, tart and spicy flavors make for an incredibly complex beer, and one that’s exciting to experience. The large amounts of rye grain used in the brewing process create a peppery flavor with hints of clove. But this beer is all about the sour and funk. A robust tartness dominates the palate while subtle vanilla notes from oak barrels peek through. For the sour-beer fan, this is a must-try.

» A beer list from Maui Stone Craft wouldn’t be complete without an incredible India pale ale, or IPA. So many of the breweries being distributed make world-class IPAs, I had a hard time picking out just one. But the new release Citrus and Piney from The Hop Concept’s Hop Freshener series was a standout.

The Hop Concept is a unique brewery. An offshoot of The Lost Abbey and Port Brewing, its sole focus is creating fresh hoppy beers. Currently there are just four releases, all double IPAs at 8.5 percent alcohol by volume, with each using different varieties of hops. The concept showcases the unique qualities of various types of hops.

Citrus and Piney has a dry, clean finish and absolutely no sweetness. Eight hops were used to create a citrus-dominated aroma of tangerine, grapefruit and orange peel, which are followed by a woody, pine-driven aftertaste.

Tim Golden shares his obsession with all things craft beer monthly in the Star-Advertiser food section. See his blog, "Beer in Hawaii," at beerinhawaii.com.