Pie crust, that flaky, buttery bed for all manner of fillings, has a reputation for being difficult to master. But Cynthia Pratt begs to differ.
“It’s easy,” she flatly stated.
And listening to Pratt explain the hows and whys of making pie dough, it’s clear that the process isn’t rocket science. But it is food science, and bakers who understand the science behind the well-known rules of pie making — use shortening, keep fat cold, don’t overwork the dough — probably have a better chance at a great crust. Here, Pratt, a retired family and consumer science teacher and award-winning pie maker, breaks it down:
» Use shortening: This creates a crisp crust, something butter cannot achieve. A crust made with butter alone will be soft with less flakiness. For folks who love the flavor of butter, Pratt recommends using half shortening and half butter.
» Keep fat cold: A pie dough destined for greatness is infused with globules of fat, whether shortening or butter. Melted butter doesn’t allow these globules to form. When baked, the fat globules capture steam, making the dough bubble up and separate. This creates pockets in the dough that create the flakiness. So, when using butter, keep it cold.
» Don’t overwork the dough: It’s imperative when incorporating fat with flour that the fat pieces be no smaller than pea size — again because a good crust requires solid pieces of fat. When dough is overworked, the fat is dispersed. Another problem: Over-manipulation elongates gluten strands, making for a tougher end product. Pratt says crusts, scones and other tender pastries require short strands, while a product such as bread needs the sturdy structure of a longer strand.
Other recommendations from Pratt:
» Keep fat cold while mixing the dough by adding ice water — water with unmelted ice in it — by the tablespoon, up to 4 tablespoons, until the dough can be formed into a ball. Be mindful, however, not to add too much water, or the pie crust will shrink during baking.
Flatten the ball into a disc 4 to 5 inches in diameter, wrap in plastic wrap, then refrigerate to solidify the fat again.
» Before rolling out the dough, allow it to sit 10 to 15 minutes to warm it up just a bit. This will prevent overworking.
» Use a light hand when sprinkling the rolling pin and work surface with flour before rolling. Too much flour will result in a dry crust. A couple of teaspoons should do the job.
» Roll from the center out and lift the rolling pin rather than rolling it across the dough. Remember, over-rolling will lengthen gluten strands.
» Add texture and flavor by layering nuts on the bottom crust.
» Don’t waste the zest of citrus fruit. Wash well, then take a microplane to it. Pratt’s technique is to place the plane on top of the fruit while grating “so that I can see what I’m doing.” That allows her to regulate the grating, so her fruit is thoroughly grated without over-grating into the white pith. Pratt freezes zest, adding it to baking projects, dressings and savory sauces. She also recommends using zest to flavor sugar. Mix in 1/2 teaspoon to a bowl of sugar. The seasoned sugar will keep a long time, with the sugar preserving the zest.
Easy as pie. No lie.
The following basic pie crust recipe makes 1 disc of dough; double the recipe for pies with a top crust and divide into 2 discs.
It is followed by Cynthia Pratt’s pineapple, banana and lilikoi crumb pie, which took top honors in last year’s Hawaii State Farm Fair Best Local Pie contest.
Finally, a delicious pie crust can also add the finishing touch to savory dishes such as a Ham and Cheese Quiche.
Single Pie Crust
» 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
» 1/2 teaspoon salt
» 8 tablespoons solid shortening (or half cold, unsalted butter and half cold shortening)
» 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water
Heat oven to 375 degrees. In large bowl, combine flour and salt. Cut in shortening/ butter to create a medium-coarse texture. Stir in ice water by the tablespoon and work dough with a light hand to incorporate. Form dough into ball.
Flatten into 4-inch disc. Wrap. Refrigerate. Roll out on lightly floured surface to 12-inch diameter. Place into pie pan and shape.
Bake 22 to 25 minutes. Cool.
Pineapple, Banana and Lilikoi Crumb Pie
Courtesy Cynthia Pratt
Crust:
» 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
» 2 teaspoons sugar
» 1/2 teaspoon salt
» 8 tablespoons solid shortening (or half shortening, half unsalted butter)
» 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water
» 3 tablespoons chopped macadamia nuts (optional)
Crumb topping:
» 1 cup all-purpose flour
» 1/2 cup rolled oats
» 1/2 cup brown sugar
» 1/2 cup butter
Filling:
» 4 scant cups diced fresh pineapple
» 2 bananas, sliced
» 3 tablespoons juice from fresh lilikoi
» Up to 1/2 cup sugar
» 2 eggs, slightly beaten
» 2 tablespoons minute tapioca
» 1/2 teaspoon salt
» 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
Heat oven to 425 degrees. Make crust: In medium bowl, combine flour, sugar and salt. Cut in shortening to achieve texture of medium crumbs. Sprinkle ice water as needed and form into ball.
Flatten to 4- to 5-inch disc. Wrap and refrigerate. Dust surface and rolling pin with flour. Roll dough into 12-inch disc. Transfer to 9-inch pie pan. Trim as necessary. Crimp edges. If using, spread nuts on bottom of pan and press into dough.
For crumb topping, in medium bowl, combine flour, oats and sugar. Cut in butter to achieve texture of large crumbs. Set aside.
To make filling, in large bowl, combine all filling ingredients. Pack onto crust. Top with crumb topping.
Place pie on baking sheet. Bake 15 minutes.
Lower heat to 350 degrees and continue baking 55 to 60 minutes, or until filling begins to bubble and thicken. Makes 9-inch pie.
Ham and Cheese Quiche
» Single pie crust, unbaked
Filling:
» 4 beaten eggs
» 1 cup chopped ham
» 1 cup grated cheese
» 1/4 cup minced round onion
» 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
» 1/4 teaspoon salt
» 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
» Dash nutmeg
» 2 cups half-and-half
Heat oven to 425 degrees. Combine filling ingredients and pour into pie shell.
Bake 15 minutes, then lower heat to 350 degrees and bake another 45 minutes. Cool 15 minutes before serving. Serves 6 to 8.
Nutritional information unavailable.