Lately I’ve come across too many restaurant accidents waiting to happen not to take preventive measures. I don’t tell them who I am, so as far as they’re concerned, I’m just an opinionated customer. I think more people should do the same.

In the case of the new Waikiki restaurant Café Grand Harue, I’m happy to take credit for the start of all-day breakfast, though I’m sure I’m not the only one who encouraged the proprietors to think along these lines. My suggestion was only to extend breakfast to a reasonable 2 or 3 p.m. on weekends, when many go searching for a leisurely brunch after sleeping in.

The time issue came up upon arriving there at 11:30 a.m. one Sunday to accommodate friends, not knowing breakfast had ended at 11. It was doubly disappointing because I wasn’t looking forward to lunch after having had a lackluster dinner there a few nights earlier.

Luckily for us, we were the only ones in the restaurant, so they agreed to restart breakfast.

I just think it’s a smart idea to piggyback off the success of the space’s former breakfast-oriented tenants, Egg ’N Things. Another reason is that dinner is a huge miss. You could not find a more literal example of two meals being like night and day, and I’m told changes are being made to improve the evening experience.

I appreciate the responsiveness that likely led to the restaurateurs’ success in Korea, where “Harue” translates as “live for the day.”

The restaurant has a Gilded Age ambience that we see today only in venues like Hy’s Steak House or Old Spaghetti Factory. Grand Harue is done up in faux French style with naturalist-style hand-painted walls, accents of red and gold that mimic the flocked velvet interiors of Louis XIV’s reign and velvet-topped chairs. Frames filled with pressed flora mimic the look of botanical studies.

The breakfast menu is short and sweet, so it will be easy to remember to order the handful of dishes that will be this restaurant’s claim to fame. The most impressive is the French toast ($14) topped with fresh fruit, massive enough to feed four. The sweet bread is split in half to accommodate a filling of butter sour cream.

I’ve said many times that I prefer not to fill up on carbs, but I’d make an exception for Grand Harue’s stack of three ricotta pancakes ($16) topped with brickle-filled butter. Consistency needs improvement; some parts were dry, others were soft, with a few spots of baking powder, but the brickle butter smoothed over these mishaps.

On the savory side, a mushroom spinach organic omelet ($14) satisfies, delivered with options of toast, breakfast potatoes or rice. I love the potatoes that are perfectly crisped on the outside without the dryness or charring so prevalent at other outlets.

Then, borrowing off the lunch and dinner menu, sample the king crab meat fried rice ($18). It’s simple but easily one of the best dishes here day or night, made with light, fluffy jasmine rice, accented with bits of egg and green onions.

Fresh orange juice is a big plus because it’s such a rare offering in this town.

If you need more ways to entertain the kids over summer, an all-day keiki menu features a grilled cheese sandwich ($7), ham and cheese panini ($7), penne Parmesan ($7) mac ’n’ cheese ($7) and spaghetti with meat sauce ($8).

To date, lunch and dinner menus are similar, a mix of Italian, European and Thai specialties, although prices are about $2 lower by day. The dinner menu is subject to change, but based on what I tried, roasted chicken is the way to go ($16). Lasagna with meat sauce ($20) could have been more assertive, but those who enjoy light flavors might find this appealing.

An arugula and prosciutto pizza ($20) would have been more enjoyable if the crust were more crisp than bready and chewy, but again, those who enjoy a bready crust might feel at home here with margherita ($16), sausage and goat cheese ($18) or a four-topping pizza ($20) featuring ham, mushrooms, asparagus and artichokes.

My least favorite dish was the angel hair vongole ($20). I had no problem with the clams, but the fine pasta does not hold up to the liquidy white wine sauce, leaving it rather soggy and flavorless.

Desserts are also available all day. These range from tiramisu ($8) and cheesecake ($8) to a fresh fruit plate ($10). Something I’d like to try on another visit is a crepe with a cinnamon- and red wine-poached pear ($12).

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.

BITE SIZE

Good time to be a pancake lover

Whether you call it a pancake, flapjack or griddle cake, the breakfast staple is a favorite as is, but that doesn’t stop chefs from trying to put their own spin on it.

At Cinnamon’s you’ll find a red velvet version, while at YogurStory it goes deep into purple with purple yam, Okinawan sweet potato and ube-coconut sauce.

And now that Holoholo Bar & Grill has added breakfast to its repertoire, you can find a green tea pancake ($11) inspired by Bubbies green tea ice cream.

Don’t let the color scare you. These pancakes are light and cakey, a dream for those who love the flavor of matcha.

And if pancakes don’t appeal, my other favorite item on Holoholo’s breakfast menu is the Smoke Meat Gahlik Fly Lice. (Can tell they’re local.)

But back to pancakes: One more restaurant is on the verge of introducing a pancake based on a popular Italian dessert. Can’t wait for that one!

Holoholo Bar & Grill is at 2494 S. Beretania St. Call 369-7297.

Bite Size documents the new, the small, the unsung.