Loaded pineapple chutney adds pep to range of dishes

The word “chutney” might seem permanently paired with the word “mango,” and indeed mango chutney is the standard not just in Hawaii, but in India and Britain, which have done the most to promote the chutney culture.

The sweet, sour, sometimes spicy preserve can be made with any fruit, though, and many vegetables. Enter: pineapple chutney.

“The Halekulani serves a cheese platter in Lewers Lounge that includes a pineapple chutney that is so good I’m willing to pay for the cheese platter just to get it,” Robbie Brandt emailed.

Pretty high praise.

The recipe comes courtesy of Vikram Garg, executive chef for the resort. It is loaded not just with pineapple, but also honeydew melon and cantaloupe. The variety of spices includes some that will be familiar to mango chutney aficionados, while others are a departure — curry powder, for instance, and lemongrass.

To make it you’ll have to gather up a lot of ingredients, but the technique itself is simple, even if you’ve never made a chutney before. Just don’t wander away during the simmering time; you’ve got to stir a lot to keep the mixture from sticking and burning.

I cooked up a batch this weekend, and Brandt is correct: This is something special, a whole rainbow of taste sensations (although I was lacking in kaffir lime leaves and had to substitute grated lime zest).

This would be a fabulous addition to your holiday entertaining arsenal. Try it as an alternative to cranberry sauce as a turkey fixing, or serve it as Lewers Lounge does, on a cheese platter. Orchids at the Halekulani also pairs it with a seafood curry.

Or eat it the way I do: straight off a spoon.

Halekulani Pineapple Chutney

» 1/2 ounce onion, finely diced (about 1 tablespoon)
» 1/4 teaspoon finely chopped lemongrass
» 1/4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
» 1/4 teaspoon finely chopped ginger
» 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
» 1/8 teaspoon finely chopped kaffir lime leaf
» 3/4 teaspoon curry powder
» Pinch chili flakes, or more to taste
» 1/4 cinnamon stick
» 8 ounces pineapple, julienned (about 2 cups)
» 4 ounces honeydew, julienned (about 1 cup)
» 2-1/2 ounces cantaloupe, julienned (about 1/2 cup)
» 1 ounce brown sugar (2 tablespoons firmly packed)
» 2 ounces white sugar (about 1/3 cup)
» 2 ounces sherry vinegar (1/4 cup)
» 1/2 ounce slivered almonds (about 1-1/2 tablespoons)
» 1/2 ounce raisins (about 1-1/2 tablespoons)
» Kosher salt, to taste
» 8 mint leaves

In a wide, heavy-bottomed pot, saute onions, lemongrass, garlic and ginger in oil until onion is translucent. Add lime leaf, curry powder, chili flakes and cinnamon stick and cook another minute.

Add fruit; bring to a simmer over medium. Cook until natural juices emerge and reduce by half, about 15 minutes.

Add sugars and sherry and let simmer on low about 30 minutes, until fruit darkens and caramelizes and liquid is reduced by half.

Add almonds and raisins; continue simmering another 30 minutes, until thickened. As mixture cooks down, stir frequently and scrape sides of pot so that chutney does not burn (use a spatula dipped in water if mixture is very sticky). Taste, add a pinch of salt if needed and adjust other seasonings. Cool immediately. Add mint leaves. Makes about 12 ounces; serves 4.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving, not including salt to taste: 210 calories, 5 g fat, no saturated fat or cholesterol, 100 mg sodium, 40 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, 33 g sugar, 2 g protein

Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Write “By Request,” Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or email requests to bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.