Nitrogen beers aren’t new, but really deliver the flavor

Craft beer has always been driven by innovation, risk and experimentation. Without craft brewers pushing the boundaries of flavor, we would still be a nation of light lagers and bland, similar tastes. Instead, with so many craft beers on the market, breweries are always looking for the next big trend or innovation that will draw drinkers.

In 2016, get ready to see a lot of nitrogen, or “nitro,” beers. These have been around since the late 1980s, when Guinness introduced its famous stout in a can with a plastic sphere, or widget, of nitrogen, allowing Guinness lovers to finally get that creamy, silky-smooth draft effect at home.

Guinness is no longer the sole nitrogen beer. Over the past few years, craft brewers and craft beer bars have been pouring all kinds of beers on nitrogen, and now multiple breweries are releasing them in bottles and cans.

Exactly what is a nitro beer? Traditionally, most beers are carbonated with carbon dioxide, which creates those fizzy bubbles and that prickly effervescence. Nitrogen beers contain about 70 percent nitrogen and only 30 percent carbon dioxide. Nitrogen generates small, fine bubbles and isn’t soluble in liquid. This creates the mesmerizing effect of a large, thick and creamy head with cascading tiny bubbles down the side of the glass.

Nitrogen beers are dramatically different from their carbon dioxide counterparts. The addition of nitrogen affects aroma and flavor. The smaller nitrogen bubbles don’t fizz up into the air, meaning they don’t carry as much aroma out of the glass. The lack of carbonic acid also helps to smooth any harsh, “roasty” or bitter flavors. Carbonation tends to be more aggressive on the tongue, while nitrogen creates less of a bite.

For many years, nitrogen was primarily used to serve darker beers such as stouts and porters. The thick creaminess works harmoniously with the deep, rich flavors and textures of dark beers. But recent experimentation has led to trying practically every beer style with nitro. Guinness recently released an English-style IPA with nitro, and Sam Adams is preparing to release an IPA, a Belgian Wit and a coffee stout in nitrogen cans this year.

While some new styles work well with nitrogen, others flail without the pop of traditional carbon dioxide.

Malt-forward beers such as Scottish ales and barley wines become wonderfully velvety with nitrogen. Hop-forward beers such as IPAs and pale ales lose much of their vibrant aromas and flavors. The silky texture created by nitrogen mutes complex hop flavors and brings forward the beers’ malty characteristics. Some Belgian styles that depend on high carbonation to provide a lively, crisp, refreshing quality also suffer.

Good or bad, nitrogen beers will make a huge push this year. When the opportunity presents itself, try the same beer on nitro and with regular carbon dioxide. The distinctions can be amazing.

Tim Golden, a certified cicerone, shares his obsession with all things craft beer monthly in the Star-Advertiser food section. See his blog, “Beer in Hawaii,” at beerinhawaii.com.