Qeelin’s whimsical jewelry puts a new spin on ‘made in China’

Dennis Chan was schooled in industrial design and marketing and was making a living as a design consultant for companies ranging from automobile manufacturers to Panasonic, but nine years of seeing others succeed with his ideas left him with a hunger to create his own brand.

What that would be he didn’t know, until he went on a trip in 1997 to Dunhuang’s Mogao Caves in northwestern Gansu province, China, which had been a major stop on the ancient Silk Road.

“Fifteen hundred years ago it was the crossroad of all trade with the West opening to the East. It was a stopover, a melting pot, and because travel was dangerous they built caves, sanctuaries that they filled with temples and artwork,” Chan said during a phone interview from his home in Hong Kong. “Because the desert is so dry, the murals are so well preserved, and they really fascinated me. You could see how people were dressed, their hairstyles, fashion and jewelry. Here we had this really amazing history, but I felt like no one was taking care of it.”

Jewelry had never been Chan’s calling prior to that experience. As a student in London when Hong Kong was a British colony, he said jewelry was a part of his studies, but “it was not part of my interest at that time.”

Suddenly, at the caves, he had an epiphany that he would be the one to take China’s story to the West through jewelry, and Qeelin was born. The name is a Westernized spelling of “qilin” or “kirin,” a fearsome, mythical creature representing prosperity, success and protection.

Chan, 55, introduced his first pieces in 2004, and among fans of the brand was Hong Kong actress Maggie Cheung (“Hero,” “In the Mood for Love”). In February 2007 Cheung was headed to the Cannes Film Festival and asked Chan whether she could wear his jewelry on the red carpet. She had been nominated for a Palme d’Or Best Actress award for her role in “Clean,” also starring Nick Nolte.

When Cheung became the first Asian woman to win a Palme d’Or — for her role as a woman whose life goes into a tailspin after she is wrongfully accused of heroin possession — it not only changed her life, but Chan’s as well.

“It was very lucky. The next day everybody was talking about her dress, her jewelry, and overnight my products became famous.”

Chan leveraged that publicity by choosing to open the first Qeelin boutique in Paris at the Jardin du Palais Royal later that year. There are now 25 Qeelin boutiques worldwide, but only recently has the brand begun to move into the United States.

Timed to the beginning of the Year of the Monkey, Qeelin will launch at Neiman Marcus with a trunk show of its latest designs from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. today through Saturday. Chan will be in California, but company President Alberto Petochi will be here to share the collection in the Precious Jewels Salon, Level One.

It has been Chan’s aim to incorporate centuries-old Chinese myths and symbols into contemporary and whimsical jewelry pieces. Among Qeelin collections are:

>> Wulu: Inspired by the bottle gourd with lines that echo the curves of the auspicious No. 8. With its hard shell, these bottles have been used to carry medicine, wine and “magic.” They were also tied to the backs of children and boat people to serve as life preservers.

>> Bo Bo: The panda, a Chinese symbol of innocence and peace, has been re-imagined as a teddy bear with articulated limbs, crafted in 18-karat gold and gemstones.

>> Yu Yi: The lock charm was worn in ancient China as a symbol of protection and the manifestation of dreams.

>> Xi Xi: The Chinese Lion Dance is a burst of joy with a body encrusted with colorful gemstones. “I wanted to bring him to life in a piece of jewelry. His ears move, his mouth moves. He’s very flexible,” Chan said.

>> King & Queen: This collection captures the majestic powers of the dragon and phoenix, finding harmony in the balance of male and female energy, yin and yang.

Prices start at about $415 for a pair of Wulu cuff links or $810 for a petite Wulu bracelet in 18-karat rose gold, but can go up to $123,000 for one of three limited-edition Xi Xi couture necklaces in 18-karat white gold set with pave diamonds, rubies and onyx.

The growth of the brand coincides with China’s growing world presence and cultural pride.

“I spent one-fourth of my life in Europe, where I loved window shopping. I found that luxury stores were not really about products, but a story and a history. It’s something we weren’t doing in China,” Chan said.

“When most people talk about Chinese style, they talk about antiques. China has a reputation of doing a lot of copying and being the workshop of the world. But that story is evolving. It’s the same way people were talking about Japan after World War II. Even Korea. Before, nobody wanted to drive Korean cars. Now they’re everywhere.

“Living in a country, you don’t think much about your own culture, but when you travel you look back and have more respect for your own heritage.”