Bevy creates an outside-the-islands cocktail experience

Bevy, on the corner of Auahi and Keawe streets, is one of those unexpected places where you find great cocktails, atmosphere and pupu.

This cozy, neighborhood cocktail bar opened in August 2013 in Kakaako, and has managed to evolve along with an area undergoing transformation from light industrial to a new mix of condos, hip shops and restaurants. Construction of The Collection, a 43-story high-rise by Alexander & Baldwin, is underway right across the street.

“Basically, we wanted to create a New York-style cocktail bar,” said owner Christian Self. “A space where you come inside and you don’t feel like you’re in Hawaii. More New York, San Francisco, that kind of vibe. And that’s reflected in our offerings.”

In the next few months, Bevy will be growing, according to Self, into the space occupied by Cocina next door. The kitchen will move over there, and offerings will include grab-and-go lunch, beverages and outdoor seating.

The experience

Step inside and you’ll find a cool, artsy interior, an escape from the pounding of the construction work outside. You don’t have to dress to impress here. It’s casual, and you can come solo and take a seat at the bar or hang out with friends at an assortment of high tables with stools, or a low-slung bank of booths upholstered with recycled denim along the lava rock wall.

The space is industrial chic, with Pow! Wow! Hawaii art on one wall. On a recent Monday evening, the place was more than two-thirds full, with people making a pau hana stop after work in the neighborhood, young professionals and a Japanese couple and their toddler in a stroller. Bartenders and servers are personable.

Metered parking is available on the street, but a parking garage at the new SALT retail complex also offers validated parking ($2 for the first hour).

The food

The Hamilton Bay oysters are, hands down, the star attraction at Bevy’s happy hour. Normally market priced at $3 to $5 each, they’re available for $1.50 apiece during happy hour, and are served up on the half shell with a classic mignonette (vinegar, salt, pepper, green onions) and house-made ponzu. Cocktail sauce is available upon request. Order a dozen to share with friends; add a squeeze of lemon and it’ll be just right. They go down smooth, leaving a salty brine and taste of the sea lingering on the tongue.

If oysters are not your thing, other choices include a Ploughman’s Plate filled with a variety of cheese, charcuterie, liver pate and pickled onions with baguette slices from the regular menu ($14). It’s satisfying, and suitable for sharing.

We also tried Bevy’s version of bruschetta ($7), a tasty mix of fig compote, brie and arugula on grilled bread.

Pop-up menus surface at Bevy from time to time. On our visit, there were some one-day-only pupu to accompany beers by Gigantic Brewing Co. The celeriac fries ($8), made from a turnip-rooted celery, with a light, starchy texture, were the best fries I’ve ever had. I’m hoping Bevy will add this to the regular menu.

The drink

Bevy calls its drinks “crafted libations,” and they truly are works of art. The cocktail of the day ($5) varies on any given day, as created by a team of four to five bartenders who are given free rein. Recently, bartender Tess “Hot Sauce” Sawyer concocted a beer cocktail made from Gigantic’s Brit-American Pale Ale in a Collins glass with muddled cucumber, guava juice and lemon sour. It’s like a Pimm’s Cup, she said, with summer vibes.

You can sip a simple glass of Champagne during happy hour for $5, but the cocktails are fun. I enjoyed a Moscow Mule ($8), New Amsterdam vodka with house-made ginger beer, lime juice and wedge in a copper cop. Regular prices for cocktails range from $8 to $12.

The verdict

Bevy is a great place to bring friends and a repeat destination. If you live or work in the neighborhood and can walk there, count yourself lucky. I would definitely return for the oysters and cocktail of the day.